Atelier Moessmer Norbert Niederkofler Brunico, Italy

'This isn't just a restaurant. It's a think tank.' That's how Norbert Niederkofler, one of Italy's top chefs, describes his latest venture. He sees it as a training ground for young talent shaping the future of cuisine.

The setting is as thoughtful as the food: a renovated 19th- century mansion with mocha- toned walls, mounted tweed panels and original dark wooden floors. The blend of past and present reflects Niederkofler's philosophy - honouring tradition while innovating for the future.

The menu delivers on this ethos. Corn tacos filled with char tartare, char roe and apple offer a satisfying crunch, with the fish bringing a smoky depth. Chickpea tartlets are softer, more delicate in flavour. An autumnal salad of seasonal vegetables, crispy seeds and a fermented garlic yogurt dressing balances freshness with tang.


For something unexpected, try the potato cannoli. Thinly sliced potatoes are rolled into a crisp tube, encasing goat cheese flavoured with herbs and mushrooms. It's an inventive twist - echoing the flavours of herb quark and fried potatoes, but in a refined, elegant form. A restaurant that's rethinking fine dining - both on the plate and in the kitchen.