Buttery bun maskas, Parsi bites, spicy mutton keema: Mumbai’s 93-year-old Iranian cafe serves comfort food with a side of nostalgia. Even BR Ambedkar had tea and bun maska here

The city of Mumbai has a charm of its own. Besides the usual striking features, one that catches attention is the lineup of Irani cafes. Reports reveal that these quaint eateries were established by a wave of Parsi immigrants who arrived in Mumbai in the late 19th century, fleeing persecution or seeking better prospects. One among them is Cafe Colony in the busiest lanes of Dadar. Established in 1933 by the Iranian-descended family of Agha Nazariyan, the 93-year-old cafe is now run by his children - daughters Bibi Fatehmeh, Bibi Sadat, and son Azad.

All about Mumbai’s Cafe Colony

According to a blog post by travelsfortaste, Agha Nazariyan, now 84 years old, immigrated to Mumbai via Surat, like other Iranianh families and opened Cafe Colony. Initially, the cafe specialised in bun maskas, brun maskas, handmade cakes and crispy toasts. Do you know even politician BR Ambedkar relished the delicacies here? In fact, Agha himself prepared biryani for Ambedkar’s grandsons.

According to travelsfortaste blogger Manjiri’s 2013 interaction with Agha Nazariyan, the owner had revealed that back in his time, raw stock was easily available and the labour was cheap. Personalised services were available too for those who resided nearby. The staff at Cafe Colony, mostly young Iranian boys, would personally deliver eggs, bread and other items to customers

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Vibrant menu of Cafe Colony

Apart from that, there was a jukebox and a weighing machine, with residents from Parsi colony visiting the cafe to enjoy the music and sit around till late. But over the years, the suburb expanded, and so did the menu of Cafe Colony. Safe to say, the items did not rely on bakery, sweet dishes and hot beverages anymore. Indulgent non-veg classics slowly became a part of the menu, attracting more and more customers.

Stepping inside Cafe Colony feels like entering a vintage era, replete with Parsi vibes, wooden furniture and a cosy ambience. The aroma of burnt pav loaves floats in the air while glass jars lure you in with delicious khari biscuits. The cafe strictly adheres to Parsi recipes, with the most famous being mutton keema, available in the morning too. Other specials include paya, chicken curry, chicken burgers, lollipops, patties and chicken and mutton biryani.