What medical aesthetician Cassandra Bankson looks for before using a new skincare product

Los Angeles–based medical aesthetician and acne educator Cassandra Bankson has spent years helping people make sense of skincare — separating what truly works from what simply looks good online. She often reminds people that good skincare isn’t about chasing trends, but about learning how products behave on real skin over time.

When Cassandra tests a new product, she says the process always begins before anything touches her face. Ingredients come first. She explains that she spends time understanding what’s inside a formula and how those ingredients are meant to function together. “It always starts with learning my ingredients,” she says, emphasizing that knowing what you’re using matters more than how exciting the product sounds.

She also pays close attention to packaging, especially when dealing with active ingredients like vitamin C. Some ingredients degrade quickly when exposed to light and air, which can make even a well-formulated product less effective. Cassandra points out that thoughtful packaging — such as airless, UV-protective pumps — helps preserve stability and signals that a brand has considered long-term performance, not just first impressions.

How she observes products on real skin

Once she applies a product, Cassandra slows down and observes. Texture is one of the first things she notices. She asks simple questions: Does it absorb easily? Does it sit well on the skin? Does it pill when layered with other products? Since many treatments are meant to be worn during the day, she also checks how they behave under sunscreen and makeup.

She’s especially mindful of skin chemistry. Active ingredients like vitamin C often have a lower pH, which can sometimes irritate the skin. When she doesn’t have tools to measure acidity, she relies on sensation. “I’m feeling if this stings or burns on the skin,” she explains. In this case, it didn’t — which stood out to her as a sign of a well-balanced formula.

Cassandra doesn’t limit testing to just one area. To understand how a product performs in terms of pigmentation, she sometimes applies it to places like the chest, where discoloration can be more noticeable. This helps her track results beyond surface-level glow.

Why patience matters more than instant results

One of Cassandra’s strongest messages is about time. Skincare, she reminds people, is not instant. “You should use it for a minimum of 30 days, if not two to three months, to actually see results,” she says. Skin needs consistency, and judging a product too early can lead to disappointment or confusion.

While she may like how a product feels initially, Cassandra admits that absolute trust comes from results. In this case, she was surprised by how noticeable the changes were over time. “I was not expecting my before and after to be so amazing,” she says, noting that it eventually became one of her preferred vitamin C options.

Her broader takeaway is practical and reassuring. You don’t need to be a professional to make informed skincare choices. Paying attention to ingredients, noticing how your skin reacts, and giving products enough time to work can make a meaningful difference.

For Cassandra, skincare isn’t about perfection or quick fixes. It’s about learning your skin, staying curious, and letting consistency — not hype — guide your routine.