Breakfast of Michelin star champions

Why is 'the most important meal of the day' treated as a utilitarian refuelling stop rather than its own top-of-the-line destination? Michelin, that gold standard for gastronomic excellence, ignores breakfast as a category, preferring foams and reductions served at 8 pm. Why not elevate the 8 am plate - and palate? Consider Tokyo's ryokan breakfasts: grilled fish, miso soup and pickles arranged with the precision of a kaiseki dinner. Or the cultural peaks of croissants and cafe creme at Cafe de Flore in Paris. Ricotta hotcakes and scrambled eggs at Bill's in Sydney is a modern Australian breakfast legend. At MTR in Bengaluru, dosas and idlis are imbued with heritage flair. Not to forget brun maska and chai at Mumbai's Britannia & Co. Michelin should codify such experiences, rewarding chefs who transform mornings into art.

Michelin stars are earned for cultural authenticity, signature dishes, ambience and heritage, consistency and craft. It's time to also swivel the gaze to 'nihari', the ultimate royal breakfast from the Arabic 'nahar', literally meaning early morning. 'Michelin Breakfast Guides' can nudge hotels to perfect their dosas or pancakes with aplomb and style.

There is the danger, of course, of over-formalisation. Nobody wants a 12-course omelette. But just as Michelin introduced a dedicated street food category in 2016 - the undisputed crown jewel being Raan Jay Fai in Bangkok, famous for its legendary crab omelette and drunken noodles cooked over charcoal, which has retained its 1-star since 2018 - it can certainly adapt to the breakfast table. If Michelin truly wants to capture culinary culture in all its multi-palate glory, it should certainly take the meal that begins each day as seriously as the one that ends it.