Prada looks to put the best (Kolhapuri) foot forward, signals artisan tie-up for sandals amid IP concerns

Mumbai: Prada could well partner with Indian artisans if it were to decide to produce and commercialise its Kolhapuri chappal-inspired line of men’s sandals, the Italian luxury house said. A spokesperson for Prada Group said it “is already in the process of setting up next steps with the relevant parties and supply chain in the event the sandals were to be commercialised. In fact, the entire collection is currently at an early stage of design development and none of the pieces are confirmed to be produced.”

Lalit Gandhi, president of the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture, said a team is being appointed by the global brand to interact with local artisans in India. “We’re working toward an outcome where the brand commercialises the product with the involvement of these artisans,” he said. “Now that they have acknowledged this is our craftsmanship, they’ve also stated they will discuss the next steps with us before proceeding with commercialisation.”

Prada has formally acknowledged that sandals featured at its recent Men’s Spring-Summer 2026 fashion show were inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, as ET reported on Saturday. Group corporate social responsibility head Lorenzo Bertelli had written to Gandhi for this.

“We are committed to responsible design practices, fostering cultural engagement, and opening a dialogue for a meaningful exchange with local Indian artisan communities, as we have done in other collections to ensure the rightful recognition of their craft,” he wrote. “Prada strives to pay homage and recognise the value of such specialised craftspeople that represent an unrivalled standard of excellence and heritage.”

The letter was in response to Gandhi’s midweek communication calling for acknowledgment and ethical collaboration over the use of traditional Kolhapuri slipper designs. ET has seen a copy of these letters.

Prada had showcased leather sandals bearing a strong resemblance to the iconic Kolhapuris, sparking widespread backlash in India and reigniting conversations on cultural appropriation in global fashion.

The Sant Rohidas Leather Industries & Charmakar Development Corporation (LIDCOM) jointly holds the geographical indication (GI) rights to Kolhapuri slippers with Karnataka’s LIDKAR.

Limited Protection
LIDCOM is evaluating legal options following Prada’s use.

A senior LIDCOM official said that the development body has written to the Department of Social Justice and Empowerment, which is expected to take the issue to the ministry of commerce and industry.

“Whoever used the Kolhapuri chappal should seek our permission. This is a reputational loss for us,” the official observed.

According to intellectual property rights lawyer Priyanka Khimani, Prada’s acknowledgement of being inspired by “Indian handcrafted footwear,” and its intent to collaborate with and pay homage to our craftsmen—should it commercially exploit the sandals in the future—was a positive development.

While Indian GI laws protect the name and implied origin of registered products, they do not cover design mimicry.

“Unless Prada markets or sells these sandals using the word ‘Kolhapuri,’ or suggests a link to Kolhapur’s craftsmanship, there is no legal recourse,” Khimani further said.

Cross-border legal protection is currently not available for GI tags. Proprietors can increase protection by registering the name or logo as a trademark in other jurisdictions.

The Kolhapuri chappal received GI status in 2018. Yet only 95 artisans have registered as authorised users, owing to low awareness of GI benefits among craftsmen.