Cosmetics to get a quality brushup for imports

The government may soon introduce stringent quality norms for a host of beauty products to rein in imports of cheap, substandard cosmetics, officials directly involved with the development said.

The government has begun consultations on the formulation of quality control orders (QCOs) for cosmetics products. “Discussions are on with stakeholders on QCOs for the sector,” a government official told ET.

QCOs are quality standards mandated by the Indian government for various sectors, to ensure that products meet defined standards and performance parameters. India has been witnessing a rise in imports of cosmetics.


The development is expected to have a sweeping impact on India’s $21-billion beauty and personal care (BPC) market, which is the world’s fourth largest and growing faster than China and the US.

“We welcome the objectives… However, the industry’s concern is that there should not be an overlap and duplication while laying down fresh QCOs as elaborate standards already exist,” said Dev Bajpai, advisor and former whole-time director at Hindustan Unilever (HUL), which makes and sells beauty brands such as Lakme, Tresemme and the recently acquired Minimalist.

“The beauty and personal care industry is already required to comply with quality standards laid down under the Cosmetic Rules, 2020, that give legal recognition to BIS standards for thirty-plus cosmetics categories; these standards also apply to imported cosmetics,” he added.

The development comes amid sweeping reciprocal tariffs imposed by the US across the world including India. There is a fear that India may become a dumping ground for products from countries facing high US tariffs.

“The gold rush in the beauty and personal care space has meant that anyone and everyone looking to make a quick buck has entered the sector and often that comes at the cost of compromised testing and safety standards,” said Arush Chopra, co-founder of Marico-owned beauty brand Just Herbs.

Beauty platform Nykaa’s founder Falguni Nayar said in a recent Nykaa-Redseer report that “as the world’s fourth largest beauty market, India’s beauty industry is at a pivotal moment in its journey—characterised by premiumisation, evolving consumer demographics, and technological advancements.”

The report estimated the Indian BPC market would reach $34 billion by 2028, up from $21 billion currently. India is currently the fastest-growing BPC market globally, with a projected CAGR of 10-11% till 2028, ahead of China’s 4-5% growth, the report said.

The development comes at a time when cosmetics and beauty products makers including HUL, L’Oreal, ITC and Marico, under industry entity Indian Beauty and Hygiene Association (IBHA), have made representations to the government to delink regulation of cosmetics and drugs, which are currently clubbed under the Drugs and Cosmetics Act, citing that the law “hinders industry growth since it is regulated like drugs.”

Presently, all beauty, skincare and cosmetics products are required to undergo inspection and licensing by authorities.

“This is a legacy issue. Cosmetics and drugs can’t be compared with the same legality, and the industry needs a cosmetics advisory board which should not come with a drug mindset,” Bajpai said.