Looms of Ladakh rejects irregularity charges, says Pashmina cooperative acted within law

Looms of Ladakh Women Cooperative Ltd has rejected allegations of irregularities in its registration and functioning, asserting that its decade-long work to strengthen Ladakh's Pashmina sector has been carried out in full compliance with the law and under the oversight of statutory authorities.

The statement comes after the Union Territory Administration of Ladakh wrote to the Union Ministry of Home Affairs (MHA), raising concerns over the cooperative's registration, governance and its role in securing Geographical Indication (GI) registration for Ladakh Pashmina textiles.

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In a statement issued on Friday, the women-led cooperative said it was established as a democratically governed producer institution to enable Ladakh's Pashmina herders and artisans to move up the value chain while retaining ownership and decision-making within local communities.

"Looms of Ladakh Women Cooperative Ltd was established as a democratically governed, women-owned producer institution to enable Ladakh's Pashmina herders and artisans to participate in higher-value activities while retaining ownership and decision-making within local communities.

"Over the past decade, it has evolved into one of Ladakh's most respected women-led institutions, supported by NABARD and other development partners, progressing from grant support to institutional credit-an achievement that relatively few grassroots producer organisations attain," the statement said.

According to officials, the Ladakh administration, in its communication to the MHA, said the cooperative was registered when IAS officer Prasanna Ramaswamy was serving as Registrar of Cooperative Societies (RCS).

The administration said records showed that Ramaswamy and his spouse, Abhilasha Bahuguna, were listed among the cooperative's co-founders. Since the cooperative's Articles of Association designated the Deputy Commissioner of Leh as its ex officio chairman, Ramaswamy also served as its chairman during his tenure as Leh Deputy Commissioner between 2015 and 2017.

The administration further said departmental records did not indicate prior approval from the competent authority for such an association.

The cooperative, however, highlighted its national and international recognition, noting that Prime Minister Narendra Modi had mentioned its work in his *Mann Ki Baat* programme, bringing national attention to the efforts of Ladakhi women to preserve and promote authentic Pashmina.

It also referred to recognition received through a United Nations Office of Partnerships campaign.

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"Its pro bono founder, Abhilasha Bahuguna, who lived, worked, and travelled with us in our homes in the past decade, and the Cooperative have also been recognised through a campaign of the United Nations Office of Partnerships, including digital displays at Times Square, New York, and the United Nations Headquarters, for advancing women-led sustainable development and ethical fashion," it said.

The cooperative said it has functioned as a democratic institution since its inception and has conducted three elections to its management positions.

"Since its registration, it has successfully conducted three elections to its management positions, reflecting its commitment to transparency and accountability. Its governance model has been studied by senior NABARD officials and by officers of the Lal Bahadur Shastri National Academy of Administration (LBSNAA) during their winter study tour in January 2026," it said.

The administration also questioned the cooperative's application for registration of "Ladakh Pashmina Textiles" as a Geographical Indication, saying departmental records did not show approval from the competent authority despite a representation claiming approval from the Director of Industries.

It also referred to an examination report issued by the GI Registry on September 11, 2025, which recommended a broader institutional framework and identified deficiencies that required rectification before the application could proceed further.

Responding to the allegations, the cooperative said the registration of "Ladakh Pashmina" under Class 24 and Class 25 represented a significant milestone by extending GI protection beyond raw Pashmina fibre to textiles and apparel.

"The application process was initiated through the Ministry of Textiles with the support of the Handloom Export Promotion Council (HEPC), which engaged the Human Welfare Association, Varanasi, to undertake the registration process before the GI Registry.

"The Cooperative fulfilled the eligibility requirements by furnishing the requisite affidavit, technical documentation and evidence of traditional weaving practices before the statutory authorities and expert committee," it said.

The cooperative added that, following scrutiny, publication in the GI Journal and recommendations by the Consultative Group, the GI Registry recorded both the Industries Department of the Union Territory of Ladakh and Looms of Ladakh Women Cooperative Ltd as registered proprietors/applicants.

It said the Industries Department later sought procedural clarifications, but denied ever claiming before the GI Registry that it had obtained prior departmental approval.

"Subsequently, the Industries Department sought certain procedural clarifications. The Cooperative has consistently maintained that it never represented before the GI Registry that prior departmental approval had been obtained. Its role was confined to furnishing the requisite affidavit, communications from the Deputy Commissioners relating to its functioning, and technical documentation to the Human Welfare Association and the GI Registry.

"A detailed written response addressing every issue raised has since been submitted to the Department. The matter remains under consideration, and no adverse or conclusive finding has been recorded against the Cooperative," it said.

Responding to questions over the role of one of its pro bono co-founders, who was serving as a district officer at the time, the cooperative cited the All India Services (Conduct) Rules, 1968.

"In this regard, Rule 13(2) of the All India Services (Conduct) Rules, 1968 expressly permits an officer to undertake honorary work of a social nature in the public interest, provided the office held is not an elected one. The officer concerned merely extended voluntary guidance in establishing the Cooperative for the benefit of local artisans and stakeholders, never held any elected office within the Cooperative, and completely dissociated from its affairs immediately after its registration. Since then, the Cooperative has functioned independently under its elected management," it said.