Real Reason Why Your Skin Gets Oily and What Dermatologist Luxe Maxfield Says Actually Helps

Oily skin is one of the most common skin concerns, yet it is also one of the most misunderstood. Many people assume excess oil is a sign of poor cleansing or the wrong products, leading them to over-wash, over-exfoliate, or skip moisturizer altogether. According to Luke Maxfield, a US-based dermatologist and Mohs surgeon, this approach often makes oiliness worse rather than better.

Maxfield emphasizes that oil production is not a flaw but a biological function. At the base of every pore and hair follicle sits a sebaceous gland that produces sebum, a natural oil that helps protect the skin barrier and prevent dehydration. The problem arises when sebum production becomes excessive or unbalanced, leaving skin shiny by midday while still feeling dehydrated underneath.

Understanding Why Skin Produces Oil

Sebum exists to support skin health. Maxfield explains that oily skin is often the result of genetics, hormonal activity, and environmental factors rather than hygiene alone. When the skin barrier is stripped through harsh cleansers or frequent washing, the sebaceous glands can respond by producing even more oil to compensate. This creates a cycle in which the skin feels greasy but remains functionally dry.


Rather than eliminating oil entirely, Maxfield stresses the importance of regulating it while maintaining hydration.

Cleanse Gently Without Overdoing It

The foundation of oil control begins with cleansing, but Maxfield cautions against aggressive formulas. Over-cleansing can strip the skin barrier and trigger rebound oil production. A gentle cleanser that removes surface oil and debris without leaving skin tight is usually sufficient.

Cleansing should prepare the skin for treatment rather than act as the treatment itself. For most people with oily skin, washing twice daily is enough.

Use Ingredients That Help Regulate Oil

After cleansing, Maxfield highlights the importance of using products that target oil production without drying the skin. One of the most widely studied ingredients for this purpose is niacinamide. Research shows that niacinamide can help regulate sebum output, reduce the appearance of enlarged pores, and support the skin barrier.

Clay-based ingredients also help absorb excess surface oil. Kaolin clay, in particular, is commonly used in skincare because it absorbs oil without being overly drying. Maxfield points out that oil absorption should be balanced rather than aggressive, since removing too much oil can increase sensitivity and irritation.

Fermented ingredients are often included in oil-balancing formulas to support the skin’s microbiome. While not essential, they may help maintain overall skin balance when paired with proven actives.

Do Not Skip Moisturizer

One of the biggest mistakes people with oily skin make is skipping moisturizer entirely. Maxfield emphasizes that dehydration can signal the skin to produce more oil. Using a lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturizer helps maintain hydration and can actually reduce excess shine over time.

A well-formulated moisturizer should feel comfortable, absorb easily, and leave the skin balanced rather than greasy. Hydration and oil control are not opposites; they work together.

Focus on Consistency, Not Quick Fixes

Maxfield notes that oil control does not happen overnight. Skin needs time to adjust to a balanced routine. Switching products too frequently or layering multiple oil-targeting treatments at once often leads to irritation, which can worsen oiliness.

Consistency with a simple routine allows the skin barrier to recover and the sebaceous glands to regulate themselves more effectively.

The Cooling Effect Is a Bonus, Not the Goal

Cooling or refreshing sensations can make oil-control products feel instantly satisfying, but Maxfield reminds patients that sensation does not equal efficacy. While cooling textures can feel soothing, long-term oil regulation depends on ingredients that support barrier health and sebum balance rather than temporary mattifying effects.

Oily Skin Is Not Unhealthy Skin

Maxfield frequently reminds patients that oily skin has benefits. Higher sebum levels are associated with a stronger skin barrier and may contribute to slower wrinkle formation over time. The goal is not to eliminate oil but to manage it in a way that supports overall skin health.

By understanding why oil exists and treating the skin with balance instead of force, oily skin can become more predictable, comfortable, and resilient.

According to Luke Maxfield, managing oil is less about fighting the skin and more about working with its biology. When cleansing is gentle, hydration is consistent, and oil-regulating ingredients are used thoughtfully, the skin often finds its own equilibrium.