Trump's 50% tariffs: India can’t lose ground in US, its most critical market, says Messe Frankfurt’s Raj Manek

Amid ongoing tariff challenges and global uncertainties, India must sharpen its focus on innovation and sustainability to achieve its $100 billion target in textiles, said Raj Manek, Executive Director and Board Member, Messe Frankfurt Asia Holdings Ltd, emphasising that investment in man-made fibres (MMF) and performance fabrics would be critical at this juncture.

“Over 60% of global fibre consumption is now in MMF. And with the PLI scheme targeting MMF apparel and technical textiles, we are in a good position to build scale and future-ready capacity,” he said after the conclusion of the 13th edition of Gartex Texprocess India, a tradeshow on garment and textile machinery, in the capital. “At the same time, using energy-efficient machinery, managing effluents properly and converting waste to value will help us meet ESG expectations and lower costs,” he added.

The show drew visitors from 436 Indian cities, 31 countries, and continents like Asia, Europe, North America, and Oceania. Organised by Messe Frankfurt Trade Fairs India, the fully owned subsidiary of Messe Frankfurt GmbH and MEX Exhibitions, an international exhibition company, the event was positioned as a platform for domestic as well as global industry players to discover opportunities, promote collaborations and infuse investments in India's textile, denim and leather industry.


Referring to the recent tariff hike by US President Donald Trump, UK-based Manek said that it has been a real jolt for the industry. “It effectively doubles the earlier duty burden, and both Indian exporters and US importers are feeling the pressure. The US is our largest market for textiles and apparel, and without a Free Trade Agreement (FTA) in place, unlike some of our competitors, we are facing a serious challenge in maintaining competitiveness and protecting cash flows,” he said.

The US is India’s largest market for textile and apparel exports, with imports totalling $4.59 billion during January-May this year, reflecting a 13% increase over the same period last year. Textiles also account for a major portion of India’s Christmas exports to the US.

There is an urgent need now for deeper engagement with the US to find a resolution, he said. “We simply can’t afford to lose ground in our most critical market.”

MMF vs Natural fibres
There is a clear supply-demand imbalance in the cotton sector. Manek emphasised that domestic consumption stands at about 318 lakh bales, whereas production is trailing at roughly 294.25 lakh bales. “That’s a significant shortfall—one that has already pushed imports up by nearly 25 lakh bales and exports down by around 18 lakh bales. To adapt, many textile mills, quite wisely, have been shifting focus toward polyester, viscose and functional or technical fabrics.”

Manek said that converting plastic waste into fibre not only helps reduce our reliance on cotton imports but also supports brands’ sustainability commitments. “On sustainability, we are seeing exciting developments—ZLD/ETP systems, chemical management tools and even textile-to-textile recycling pilots. With the EU already moving on textile EPR and India gearing up for its own framework, now is the time to get future-ready.”

However, India still holds a strong position in textiles and stacks up well against international counterparts, Manek said. “We are consistently among the top three suppliers in apparel and home textiles.”

While China continues to lead with unmatched scale, and Bangladesh and Vietnam benefit from favourable trade preferences in key markets, Manek noted that India’s recent FTAs with the UAE and Australia are helping to level the playing field. He believes that the anticipated FTA with the EU could also be transformative.

He, however, added a caveat that could be a roadblock towards India’s potential in the textile sector. “The recent US tariffs do raise short-term risks, particularly compared to Bangladesh and Vietnam, which continue to enjoy preferential access. So, speed to market, design agility, compliance, and expanding MMF capacity are all critical if we want to stay ahead in the game,” he concluded.