What is a hotel but its little luxuries?

Nobody since has demanded what Groucho Marx did, “Tell the room service to send in a bigger room!” And yet, the New York Hilton Midtown, the biggest hotel in town, plans to discontinue its in-room dining this summer. This is the season where the hospitality industry can blame everything — from disappearing bathtubs to room disservice — on the recession; some justifiably so. The Hilton says fewer people are asking for room service these days. It is likely that with the slow death of company expense accounts — ah! the evil recession again — patrons are pinching pennies. More likely, the hotel is dollar-pinching, cutting down on its accoutrements and the staff needed for that. Room service accounted for a little over 1% of hotel revenues in the US in 2012.

Yet, what is a hotel without its little luxuries? These are what sell the small quadrangular space with a bed and a television: from the concierge and the hors d’oeuvres to the affordability of Wi-Fi and even the way the shower gel foams and smells. And what greater luxury is there than to lounge back in your robe on down pillows at 2:00 a.m. and have the silver tray rolled up to your room — with a $23 macaroni and cheese under the cloche? There is ceremony, there is indulgence and it is entirely superfluous. But then, that is what luxe is all about.