This cuppa can do with some stirring

In terms of sheer numbers, tea exports put up a good showing in 2025, reaching record levels in markets led by Iraq and the UAE. A rise of 9.5% from 256.17 mn kg in 2024 to 280.4 mn kg was buoyed by rising demand from the world's largest producer of tea: China. That's the good news. With India reportedly losing its standing among tea-exporting nations, as production is caught in a cycle of rising costs and declining prices undermining the economics of plantation economy, it could be time to wake up and smell the proverbial first flush. Rising input costs in terms of fertiliser and pesticide use are not being matched by auction prices. This is causing distress among smaller gardens, and plantation workers' labour rights are under strain. An undercapitalised industry is struggling with ageing plantations and lack of expansion, which affect business sustainability.

The tea industry is in need of a new strategy for quite some time. Production must change gear from volume to value through organic and speciality teas. This will require moving towards sustainable farming practices and lowering dependence on chemical inputs. Exports must target new markets in South America, West Asia and Africa to hold up volumes. Legacy branding alone can't do the trick.

Domestic marketing of tea has to be overhauled. A large chunk of countrywide output doesn't pass through the auction system, thereby clouding price discovery. This incentivises volume over value and distorts supply response. Small tea growers that bear most of the distress need marketing support to directly reach customers. They also need help with access to credit and farming technology. Consumer behaviour can be altered to speed up premiumisation through green and herbal teas. Transition of the tea industry must be accompanied by stricter vigil on labour welfare. The future of India's tea industry has been distinctly visible for a while now. It's essentially a matter of putting more effort into the endeavour. And valuing quality, rather than being besotted with only quantity.