India really needs to spice things up

Three out of four spices known to humans are grown in India, which produces nearly half the global spice output. Three-quarters of that ends up in Indian curries. The leftovers are exported to 200 countries as inexpensive raw spices. Bulk of our exports are confined to a handful of spices and head to a few countries. China is one, where Indian spices are blended, and essential components extracted for food and medicinal use. This is where the money is in the spice business. And India is not doing enough about it.

For a start, production must rise faster, so that more spices can be exported. This would involve productivity improvements since area under spice cultivation is limited. Agricultural research has a big role to play. But central and state governments have been tight-fisted about funding it. Yield improvement through pesticide use runs up against phytosanitary standards that are key for exports. It also limits India's ability to tap the rising international demand for organic spices. Apart from increasing output, India needs to climb the value chain in spices. Capacity must be built to extract essential oils and oleoresins that cater to the wellness and nutraceutical industries. Most spices have therapeutic qualities that are yet to be fully explored, never mind tapped, and that can offer alternatives to modern medicine.

India has dominated the spice trade throughout recorded history, and these flavours have shaped the course of history. On the surface, this domination appears intact. But cracks are appearing as countries like China and Brazil turn their energies to a lucrative segment of farm exports. Indian spices must remain competitive through productivity and value enhancements. The country should also diversify its spice output away from the staple chilli, cumin, coriander, turmeric and ginger. It should, in fact, explore growing non-native spices given its geographical diversity. That'll make things truly spice.