Branded as tasteful, we can serve it up

Are we doing enough to protect our rich array of artisanal cuisine against the globalisation of palates? India has a cornucopia of recipes in need of brand protection. Examples abound in all corners of the country, from dosa to dahi vada. The trick is to fence them by geography and process, say, the Amritsari kulcha being made from atta of a particular district using a standardised process and prepared by designated local cooks. The benefits are obvious and flow all the way from the thali to the khet. Each point on the value chain gains pricing power that makes the ecosystem more sustainable and preserves the culinary tradition.

Essentially, this would involve providing some legal standing to artisanal cuisine and then building administrative fences to bind it to a place, process and people. Collectives of artisans can set out metrics for sourcing, processing and training. These will not be as rigid as patented products and processes that help large food companies expand their footprint. Yet, if these are upheld rigorously, they can help to keep traditional food on modern plates. Accompanying marketing initiatives will be needed to keep food in the public eye. Events surrounding local food have second-order effects on tourism. This was the traditional approach to gastronomic pluralism that now needs a modern avatar.

Guilds pooling available traditions are a stronger defensive force than family establishments for handed-down recipes. This type of structure permits easier entry and exit, which is important as economic opportunity expands for succeeding generations. Drawing in fresh talent is key to upholding quality. The bigger gain is through expanding the micro-economy around artisanal food by incorporating modern business practices. Countries such as Japan and France have been fairly successful in preserving their gastronomic traditions through this approach. Indian policymakers would do well to adapt some of their experience for domestic use. Bon appetit!