Lita London

In a city that turns slate-grey in winter, Lita feels like a hearth. Restaurateur Daniel Koukarskikh brings a welcome blast of live-fire warmth to London's cold streets, wrapping barbecue fare in the cosy assurance of a modern Mediterranean bistro. Inside, the French chateau styling - exposed beams, earthy tones, sage-green velvet - softens the chill before the smell of wood smoke and grilling meat does the rest.

At the heart of it all is the open fire, where British Isles produce is treated with reverence and flame. Whole Cornish turbot emerges pearlescent; a Peak district T-bone arrives charred and deeply savoury. Take a seat at the chef's counter and watch sparks fly as if you're warming your hands by a campfire rather than dining in an upscale restaurant.

Chef Luke Ahearne's pedigree shows in the details. Even something as humble as pan con tomate is elevated - garlicky tomatoes piled high on springy bread, slicked with oil and crowned by glorious Cantabrian anchovies. It's indulgent, comforting and quietly luxurious.


Lita may call itself a neighbourhood bistro, but on a winter's night in London, it feels more like refuge: fire, smoke and generosity holding the cold at bay.