Comptoir De Vie Paris

Paris has never been short on places to eat well, what it sometimes lacks is surprise. Between the bistros and the temples of haute cuisine, the city's dining scene can feel reverential to a fault. Comptoir De Vie, launched earlier this year, cheerfully ignores that rulebook.

From the team behind Little Red Door, this restaurant-cum- bar replaces hushed formality with conversation. A bright, open room centres on an 11- seat counter where chefs and bartenders work in tandem, explaining not just what you are eating, but why. Food and drinks are conceived together, blurring the line between kitchen and bar, and turning the 5-step tasting menu into a flowing narrative rather than a procession of plates.

The cooking, overseen by Adam Purcell, is precise but playful, anchored in hyper-seasonal French produce and a commitment to sustainability. Standout dishes include Fine de Claire oyster with kiwi granita and black pepper oil - briny, sharp and quietly thrilling; the delicately layered pommes de terre Anna with comte sauce, a masterclass in restraint; and the cacao-free 'chocolate' truffle made from beer waste, which is rather indulgent.