Al Gatto Verde

Tucked within the serene grounds of Casa Maria Luigia, Massimo Bottura and Lara Gilmore's elegant country retreat near Modena, Al Gatto Verde glows - literally and metaphorically. Under the leadership of Canadian chef Jessica Rosval, every dish is kissed by fire, which she wields not as a tool but as her muse.

The menu is a masterclass in controlled intensity. A borlengo, traditionally a humble Modenese pancake, is reborn in Rosval's hands with white porcini broth, 36- mth Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and black truffles - a lavish ode to local roots. A lamb kebab paired with a Canadian 'everything bagel' and peach- burnt bread sauce deftly blends smoke, sweetness and acidity. But the showstopper is the burnt pasta risotto with short rib, maple syrup and pistachio - a dish that straddles between savoury and dessert without ever losing balance.

Set amid vineyards and ancient oaks, Al Gatto Verde's converted barn exudes rustic elegance. The flicker of open flames adds a quiet drama to the space - warm, intimate and alive. Here, fire isn't merely a technique; it's a language through which Rosval tells her boldest, most beautiful stories.