Poll frenzy puts Varanasi in a vulnerable spot

VARANASI: "This is an extraordinary election," Arvind Kejriwal declared in Varanasi. This is about the future of India, he said. Thanks to Narendra Modi’s decision to contest from here, this ancient town, thus far mostly of interest to pilgrims, tourists and scholars, finds itself, its oldness and its world famous imagery, all summoned to serve as the backdrop of a bareknuckled electoral battle.

If this election is about India’s future, its centerpiece is being fought in the city that is its oldest link with its past. For the victor, the associated symbolism will be priceless. But this election will not be fought on the eternal plane. Varanasi might stand balanced on the trident of Shiva. But those who live here have problems closer to earth.







The state of infrastructure doesn’t go unnoticed by the millions of pilgrims who come each year."People come from all over the world. They look at Kashi and take back that image about India to the world. And what do they see? Garbage lying uncollected. Unclean ghats. Air pollution, water pollution, poor traffic management, a polluted river and a city that opens its drains into the river," said Shrikant Misra, a priest at the Kashi Vishwanath temple.

But the pilgrims and tourists notice the state of affairs, they move on. They have no stake in the city. For the residents who live here and whose children grow up here, it is a different matter."Kashi swarg mana jaata hai," said RC Maurya, a bank employee. "Par yeh narak bana diya gaya hai." (It’s deemed a heaven, but it has been made into hell).

Modi is being eagerly awaited by his supporters in the city. They will celebrate his arrival. But those who are not yet converts, will have some questions for the BJP. The city’s MP is from the party, as is its mayor and most of its MLAs. That, Maurya says, has not made a difference to the city. The Muslim weavers will demand better electricity supply for their looms. And many common people worry about the communal divisions that tend to accentuate around elections.

"Whenever there is any communal disturbance, this is where it begins," said a restaurant owner at the Sonarpura crossing, pointing to the end of the road, to a neighbourhood called Pandey Haveli."We call it the border," he said, laughing. Thankfully, Varanasi hasn’t seen communal disturbance in a long time.

Kejriwal’s rally managed to heat matters up a little. Young men on motorbikes zipped past, wearing Aam Admi Party caps. AAP workers were confronted by BJP workers. Both shouted slogans at each other. But matters will get really heated up only once the Congress announces its candidate. With three high-profile candidates going at it for a battle of a lifetime, temperatures in Varanasi will soar.

If Modi can consolidate the Hindu vote, he can gain. Polling has huge scope for improvement. In 2009, of the 15.61 lakh registered voters, only 6.6 lakh turned up to vote. But there is another factor that could trump caste calculations. Voters between 18 and 35 years.