Kashmir's last Mukh maker, 75, fears his 50-year-old craft may die with him: How Abdul Majeed Zargar is keeping Pashmina weaving tradition alive

Kashmir's Pashmina shawls are admired for their delicate texture, intricate craftsmanship and the generations of skill that go into making them. But while the finished shawls often receive attention, one small instrument involved in their creation rarely gets noticed. It is called the 'Mukh', a traditional wooden shuttle used by weavers to carry the weft thread through the warp on a handloom. Moving repeatedly from one side of the loom to the other, it helps bring the fabric together, making it an essential part of the weaving process.

In Srinagar's Amda Kadal Jogiwan area, 75-year-old Abdul Majeed Zargar has spent much of his life making these wooden instruments. According to reports, he is believed to be the last craftsman in Kashmir who continues to manufacture Mukhs entirely by hand.

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Now, with fewer people showing interest in learning the specialised skill, Zargar has begun teaching his son, hoping to ensure that the craft does not disappear with him.

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How Abdul Majeed Zargar discovered the art of making Mukhs

Zargar did not begin his working life with the intention of becoming a Mukh maker. Like many young men looking for a livelihood, he explored different occupations before finding his calling.

He first experimented with silver-making and later tried his hand at knife-making. Neither provided the results he had hoped for. He eventually turned to making wooden shuttles.

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Learning the craft was far from easy. It took him nearly a year to understand the techniques and develop the precision required to make a usable Mukh. His initial pieces had several shortcomings, and experienced weavers were reluctant to accept them.

Determined to find buyers, Zargar began visiting workshops and showing his handmade products to people associated with the weaving trade.

Rs 40 that gave Kashmir's Mukh craftsman a new beginning

According to his account in a conversation with Kashmir Life, he once approached a sazvari, a trader dealing in weaving equipment, in Khayam. The trader connected him with experienced craftsmen who examined his work.

Although they noticed flaws in his products, they purchased three pairs of Mukhs for Rs 40.

Zargar later learnt that the craftsmen had not bought the shuttles because they intended to use them. They wanted to encourage him to continue rather than abandon the occupation.

Recalling their words, he said they explained: "If we had not bought them, you would have lost hope."

The gesture helped him find confidence in his work. The craftsmen also introduced him to other weavers and traders, opening up opportunities to sell new shuttles and undertake repair work.

What is a Mukh and why is it important in Pashmina weaving?

The Mukh may look like a simple wooden shuttle, but its role in handloom weaving is essential. It carries the weft yarn through the warp threads, travelling across the loom in a repeated movement. As the threads interlace, they gradually form the fabric.

The tool needs to be made with considerable precision because its shape, finish and working parts affect how smoothly it moves through the loom.

For traditional Pashmina weaving, where the yarn is delicate and the process demands considerable care, the quality of the equipment matters.

Zargar has also made changes to the traditional design over the years. According to a May 2025 report by Kashmir News Observer (KNO), he replaced the iron components used in older Mukhs with brass. Iron parts could rust over time, whereas brass offered better resistance to corrosion and improved durability.

The same KNO report noted that he had manufactured thousands of these wooden shuttles and supplied them to artisans across Kashmir.

Kashmir Pashmina has a GI tag, but its traditional tools face neglect

Kashmir Pashmina is not just another textile associated with the region. It has a recognised geographical identity and is listed among India's registered Geographical Indication (GI) products.

The Government of India's compendium of handicrafts and handlooms covered under GI records the registration of Kashmir Pashmina on September 12, 2008.

However, preserving a traditional textile involves more than protecting the finished product. The specialised tools, techniques and skills used by artisans are equally important to its survival.

Zargar's work represents one such lesser-known part of Kashmir's weaving heritage. While the finished shawls are valued for their softness and craftsmanship, the wooden shuttles that help create them rarely receive similar recognition.

Why Kashmir's traditional Mukh-making craft is disappearing

After spending nearly five decades developing his skills, Zargar is increasingly concerned about what will happen to his occupation in the future.

A May 2025 report by Kashmir News Observer highlighted his difficulties in finding people willing to learn the craft. Despite attempts to train others, he struggled to attract apprentices.

According to the report, younger people are increasingly drawn towards computer-based careers and employment opportunities in cities rather than traditional occupations.

Zargar has also expressed concern about the limited institutional attention given to the specialised tools required for handloom weaving.

The problem goes beyond finding people who can make wooden shuttles. It is about preserving knowledge accumulated through years of practice, including the ability to understand a weaver's requirements, select suitable materials and shape each component correctly.

Abdul Majeed Zargar teaches his son to preserve Kashmir's Mukh-making tradition

With attempts to find outside apprentices proving difficult, Zargar has turned to the next generation within his own family. He is now teaching his son how to make Mukhs, passing on the techniques and experience he has gathered over nearly five decades.

The process requires patience, precision and a detailed understanding of traditional looms. It is not simply about shaping a piece of wood but about creating a tool that can withstand repeated use and meet the needs of experienced weavers.

For Zargar, the effort is about ensuring that the knowledge does not disappear when he can no longer practise the craft.