How to remove chewing gum from household surfaces: Freeze it first, then lift it with a dull tool

A piece of gum sticking to the wall is one of those mishaps that you might not anticipate. A child may start chewing gum and, after getting distracted, stick it to a nearby surface, where it can soften and adhere to paint, wallpaper or wood. However, according to the University of Georgia Cooperative Extension, one way to remove it involves something as simple as an ice cube.

The procedure is easy. Put an ice cube into a small plastic bag and place it directly on the gum until it becomes hard and frozen. Then use a dull tool, such as the blunt end of a table knife or a metal spatula, to carefully lift the gum from the surface without cutting into the material underneath. Freezing hardens the gum, making it easier to remove in pieces rather than spreading it further across the surface.

The freeze-and-scrape method


The same guide recommends freezing gum before scraping it from many different surfaces, including carpeting, hard flooring, wood, furniture, upholstery, leather, walls and ceilings, as well as exterior surfaces such as brick and concrete. The basic method remains the same, although the subsequent cleaning steps can vary depending on the material.

There are some general precautions to consider when treating these surfaces. First, test any cleaning solution on an inconspicuous area before applying it more widely. When using commercial solvents, make sure the area has adequate ventilation. During scraping, work slowly and carefully to avoid leaving small pieces of gum behind.

What should you do after removing the gum?

After the gum has been removed, some residue may remain on the surface. For wood or painted surfaces, wipe the area with a cloth moistened with warm water and dishwashing detergent. Then rinse with a cloth moistened with clean water and dry the surface immediately.

Tile or sealed wood floors may need an additional step if residue remains. In that case, the guide recommends applying a commercial dry-cleaning solvent with a cloth and using very fine steel wool on stubborn spots, followed by rinsing with clean water and thorough drying. This solvent-and-steel-wool treatment should be used only on non-vinyl hard surfaces, and the area may need rewaxing afterwards. For ceramic, enamel and rigid plastic, the guide recommends starting with soapy water and using a solvent if necessary, while taking care not to scratch the finish.

Carpet and upholstered fabric require a slower approach than a flat wall. The same freeze-and-scrape step comes first, though the guide suggests cutting a hole in a piece of cardboard and using it as a shield to prevent the surrounding fibres from freezing along with the gum. If a stain remains after scraping, blot it with a small amount of dry-cleaning solvent on a clean white cloth. For tougher spots, the guide describes a homemade dry spotter made from coconut or mineral oil mixed with more liquid dry-cleaning solvent, applied and blotted repeatedly until the stain lifts.

Keeping a bag of ice cubes and an old butter knife or plastic scraper handy can make the process easier when gum turns up somewhere unwanted. It is also better to deal with the gum promptly rather than allowing it to remain on a textured or painted surface. Avoid using warm water before freezing the gum, since warming it can soften the material and make it spread. Cleaning products should also be stored according to their labels and kept out of children's reach.

Wall gum may be frustrating, but the University of Georgia Cooperative Extension's guidance offers a straightforward starting point: freeze the gum, lift it carefully with a dull tool, and then treat any remaining residue according to the type of surface. Some materials may require additional cleaning products or treatment, so the appropriate method depends on what the gum has stuck to.