How to Fix Oily Roots and Dry Ends, According to Chris Wenzel

Maintaining hair that is simultaneously oily at the roots and dry at the ends is a common frustration that many attribute to their specific hair type. However, stylist Chris Wenzel argues that this imbalance is rarely a biological trait. Instead, it is usually the result of incorrect maintenance habits and a misunderstanding of how hair actually functions. According to Wenzel, correcting this cycle requires a shift in focus from adding more products to refining the basic mechanics of cleansing and moisture retention.

The Mechanism of Dryness and Oiliness

The central problem is that oil removal and moisture retention are often treated as separate issues, when they are actually part of a single system. Wenzel explains that "dry ends" are not necessarily a lack of conditioner but a failure of the hair cuticle to retain water. When the hair cuticle is damaged by heat, chemicals, or friction, it develops microscopic gaps. Wenzel compares this to a "leaky bucket"; no matter how much moisture you pour in via conditioner, it will eventually escape if the structure isn't sealed. Meanwhile, oily roots are often caused by incomplete cleansing. If the scalp isn't thoroughly cleared of sebum and product residue, the oil can accumulate, leaving hair feeling greasy just a day after washing.

Correcting the Scalp Environment

Before addressing dry ends, the scalp’s oil production must be brought under control. Wenzel suggests that many people struggle with oily hair because they use the wrong shampoo or apply it incorrectly. He introduces the concept of a "shampoo soulmate",; a formula specifically matched to the scalp's oil level that leaves no residue behind. Many "repairing" or "moisturising" shampoos contain heavy silicones or oils that cling to the roots, creating a film that attracts dirt and accelerates greasiness. The technique of washing is just as important as the product. Wenzel challenges the common practice of lathering shampoo in the hands before applying it to the head. Because shampoo is a surfactant, it needs direct contact with scalp oil to bind to it and lift it away. Lathering it in your palms creates a foam that sits on the hair rather than penetrating the skin. Wenzel recommends applying liquid shampoo directly to the scalp, starting at the back of the head, and massaging the scalp with the fingertips. He also advocates washing twice: the first wash removes surface oils and environmental debris, while the second wash ensures the scalp is truly clean.

Internal Hydration and Sealing

Once the roots are properly cleansed, the focus shifts to the mid-lengths and ends. Wenzel warns that "moisturising" products can often worsen oily hair if they are too heavy or applied too high up the hair shaft. The goal is to hydrate the inside of the hair while keeping the surface light. His recommended structure involves a two-step post-wash routine. First, a lightweight leave-in conditioner is applied to towel-dried hair. This creates a protective barrier over the entire strand. Second, a very small amount of hair oil is used exclusively on the ends. The oil acts as a sealant, closing gaps in the cuticle and preventing moisture from escaping. By using oil sparingly and only when needed, you avoid adding unnecessary weight to the rest of the hair.

Environmental and Habitual Factors

Wenzel also notes that small, overlooked habits can sabotage hair progress. For instance, using a dirty hairbrush can reintroduce old oils and bacteria into freshly cleaned hair. He suggests a process of elimination for those struggling with persistent oiliness: remove one product or habit at a time to identify the specific cause of the imbalance. Ultimately, hair responds to structure rather than trends. Fixing oily roots and dry ends does not require an arsenal of expensive products. It requires a thorough scalp cleansing, a liquid-to-scalp application technique, and a strategic method for sealing moisture into the ends. By treating the scalp and ends as two parts of a single functional system, the hair can return to a state of balance.