Back-to-school season sale fails to cheer US retailers

Retailers in the US may be dreading the approach of the school year almost as much as kids, given a forecast for the worst back-to-school season in seven years.

NEW YORK: Retailers in the US may be dreading the approach of the school year almost as much as kids, given a forecast for the worst back-to-school season in seven years. Even with projections for almost no growth, stores need to raise prices, says Burt Flickinger, managing director of Strategic Resource Group, a New York retail consulting firm. Otherwise, higher costs for everything from cotton, to shipping, to labour in China will eat away at already narrow profit margins, he said.

���It���s an absolute balancing act,��� said Patricia Edwards, a portfolio manager with Seattle-based investment firm Wentworth Hauser and Violich. ���This is retail high-wire at its finest.���

Sellers and buyers are up against similar economic realities. Retailers like JC Penney in Plano, Texas, San Francisco-based Gymboree and Cincinnati-based Macy���s must cope with higher costs and a US dollar worth 9% less than a year ago. Their customers are confronting $4-a-gallon gasoline and food price increases amid a housing market decline, falling asset values and job losses.

Shoppers ���don���t have any more money in their pocket,��� said Joseph Gromek, chief executive officer at New York-based Warnaco Group, with brands that include Calvin Klein and Speedo. ���So to think that they���re going to pay more for the same is not going to happen. The consumer is not willing and candidly today not able to spend more on discretionary items.���

Kathi Nunziato has noticed the price creep. As she shopped at a JC Penney���s in Paramus, New Jersey, the mother of a school-age boy and girl said clothes she bought in June were more expensive by the time she returned to the store in July. ���I would say $5 per item��� more expensive, she said. ���They���ve gone up, just in that short time.���
Back-to-school purchases from July through September, retailing���s second biggest season after Christmas, this year may climb 1% to $38.5 billion, according to the International Council of Shopping Centres in New York. That would be the slowest growth since 2001, the group said.

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Almost 30% of US parents plan to spend less this year on back-to-school purchases, according to a survey of 1,000 adults by America���s Research Group conducted July 8 through 10. Last year, that figure was 16%, said Britt Beemer, chairman of the Charleston, South Carolina-based firm. This year, 45% of those who planned to cut back said they had less money.

Even with the threat to volume, some retailers are trying to increase prices 8%-9% on certain items, said Flickinger. For instance, Warnaco said it has raised prices on its Calvin Klein jeans because it is a premium brand.
Stores are hoping that new merchandise, already priced higher, and well-promoted discounts will mask the inflated costs, Flickinger said. ���It���s a risky strategy, because people who are already buying less at full-price will have even more sticker shock and be less inclined,��� Flickinger said in a telephone interview. ���This is simply a matter of survival.���

One of the biggest contributors is inflation in China, where a quarter of all the clothes sold in the US are made. China���s producer price index, a measure of inflation, climbed 8.8% in June. In May, China���s PPI rose 8.2%. That in turn helped push US costs on goods from China up 4.8% in June, the biggest year-over-year gain since the Labour Department started tracking the data in 2003.

Footwear, one of the purchases parents can���t easily avoid each year, has felt the squeeze. Eighty-four per cent of shoes sold in the US are made in China. ���We���ll continue to look at sourcing some of our products from other countries like Indonesia and Vietnam,��� said Ron Fromm, the CEO of Brown Shoe, the St Louis-based maker of Buster Brown and Dr Scholl���s footwear. ���But they could never build to the volume to offset the main production capability in China.���
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Companies that have announced price increases include Collective Brands, the Topeka, Kansas-based owner of the Payless ShoeSource chain; Los Angeles-based Rebels Footwear.
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