While the dragon still sleeps
The Trashichhoe Dzong was consecrated as late as 1969 and is the seat of government as well as of the religious order.
By Koko Singh, |
The next port of call is the historic Kyichu Lhakhang, 5km out of town. This Lhakhang has twin temples that stand together in a low-walled courtyard; the two are almost identical but built 13 centuries apart! The older temple is held in great reverence and carries depictions of the 12 acts of Buddha, his previous lives as also murals of the first 16 disciples (arhats). The new temple is dedicated to Guru Padmasambhava and the secret teachings (imparted only to his closest disciples), which make up the basic tenets of the Nyingma sect.
Paro is also the base for an excursion to Taktsang Monastery, one of the most revered in the Buddhist world. It is precariously tucked into a cliff face around 3000ft above the valley floor. Although it is a fairly steep climb to the base of this collation of six temples clinging to a vertiginous hill face, do not cry off. If there is an 'absolutely-must-see' place in Bhutan, this is it! The sanctuary was built by Nyingmapa lamas in the 14th century but a mysterious devastating fire in 1998 almost completely destoyed it. A long and extremely delicate rebuilding process was completed only in 2005.
Paro is also the base for an excursion to Taktsang Monastery, one of the most revered in the Buddhist world. It is precariously tucked into a cliff face around 3000ft above the valley floor. Although it is a fairly steep climb to the base of this collation of six temples clinging to a vertiginous hill face, do not cry off. If there is an 'absolutely-must-see' place in Bhutan, this is it! The sanctuary was built by Nyingmapa lamas in the 14th century but a mysterious devastating fire in 1998 almost completely destoyed it. A long and extremely delicate rebuilding process was completed only in 2005.
Bhutan's capital Thimphu is spread along a willow-lined river and is unlike most capitals. I am struck by the absence of monstrous highrises. All structures are built according to the traditional style and embellished with beautiful paintings. With a population of only 80,000, the traffic density is low enough not to require traffic lights! Till it became the capital, Thimphu was a village and retained its rural character till the 1970s. However, it is now quite 'happening' with several bars and even a couple of discos!
There are some magnificent sights to see in this town and some superb drives around it. Start by visiting the National Memorial Chorten, built in 1974 in memory of the third king. With its golden spires gleaming in the sun and its large white dome framed by the lazuline sky it is definitely worth a 'dekho'. Driving along Gaden Lam, rise above the city to visit Changangkha Lhakhang which is one of the oldest temples in Thimphu, dating back to the 15th century. Festooned with colourful flags this lhakhang's main statue is of Avalokiteswara and the tranquil meditative calm of this place makes time stand still...
The Trashichhoe Dzong was consecrated as late as 1969 and is the seat of government as well as of the religious order. With its superb sense of proportion and space this is a magnificent building. When Thimphu became the capital, the king ordered its complete renovation and expansion in 1962, leaving the central chapels and the utse (tower) untouched. The finish and attention to detail add to the building's grand appearance; the outer walls are of well dressed and fitted granite, the courtyard is paved with rectangular stone slabs and at the four corners are elegant three-storey high towers.
There are some magnificent sights to see in this town and some superb drives around it. Start by visiting the National Memorial Chorten, built in 1974 in memory of the third king. With its golden spires gleaming in the sun and its large white dome framed by the lazuline sky it is definitely worth a 'dekho'. Driving along Gaden Lam, rise above the city to visit Changangkha Lhakhang which is one of the oldest temples in Thimphu, dating back to the 15th century. Festooned with colourful flags this lhakhang's main statue is of Avalokiteswara and the tranquil meditative calm of this place makes time stand still...
The Trashichhoe Dzong was consecrated as late as 1969 and is the seat of government as well as of the religious order. With its superb sense of proportion and space this is a magnificent building. When Thimphu became the capital, the king ordered its complete renovation and expansion in 1962, leaving the central chapels and the utse (tower) untouched. The finish and attention to detail add to the building's grand appearance; the outer walls are of well dressed and fitted granite, the courtyard is paved with rectangular stone slabs and at the four corners are elegant three-storey high towers.
I strongly recommend a half-day drive out of town, through beautiful wooded countryside, to a couple of other historic temples. The Pangri Zampa Temple Complex is about 10km away and has two imposing white buildings approached by a path past enormous cypress trees and along an elaborately decorated mani wall. Proceed around 4km further, forking uphill to the right, to reach Dechenphu Lhakhang. This eye-catching tall red gompa is dedicated to the powerful deity Gyenyen who looks after Bhutan in times of need. Going beyond the courtyard is not allowed but you can admire the 'sinking rock' after which Thimphu is named.
Back in Thimphu there are more sights to take in... Start at the top - take the road to Motithang but turn right, heading towards the telecom tower that provides brilliant, clear views of the town and countryside. Heading back, stop for a few minutes at the 'mini-zoo' which is actually a large outdoor enclosure that holds one of the strangest looking creatures you are likely to ever see - the takin believed to be a combination of a goat and a cow!
Back in Thimphu there are more sights to take in... Start at the top - take the road to Motithang but turn right, heading towards the telecom tower that provides brilliant, clear views of the town and countryside. Heading back, stop for a few minutes at the 'mini-zoo' which is actually a large outdoor enclosure that holds one of the strangest looking creatures you are likely to ever see - the takin believed to be a combination of a goat and a cow!
Drive past the rolling greens of the golf course with the grand National Library on the opposite side. Just above the library is the Painting School, known more formally as the National Institute of Zorig Chusum that offers a six year course on Bhutan's traditional crafts. Almost adjacent is the Folk Heritage Museum with its interior styled to resemble a typical farmhouse as it would have been a hundred years ago.
The last stop is the National Textile Museum which showcases the traditional methods of weaving, and also offers items for sale. Since Bhutan is known for its creative and exotic stamps, those interested would find a visit to the Post Office an extremely rewarding experience.
If you're there over a weekend, see groups of archers in intense competition - this is a favoured sport and the large turnout is vociferous! Thimphu is also the base for several walks into the stunning countryside besides a day trip to the historic Punakha Dzong. The journey is across a 10,150ft pass called Dochu la, which is crowned by a striking collection of 109 chortens.
If you are willing to compromise a little on the comfort and food standards, venture further East to the Phobjika valley - the rare black-necked cranes migrate here for the winter. This is where Bhutan's natural beauty is at its grandest - almost sans tourists too.
Go even further East to the cultural capital Bumthang. The name is ascribed to the shape of the valley: 'bumpa' is an oblong vase of holy water placed at the altar of the lhakhang, while 'thang' is field or flat place. The Bumthang region is sacred and has the highest concentration of temples and monasteries. It embraced Buddhism in the 8th century when Guru Padmasambhava visited and its religious significance was enhanced when Nyingmapa saints including the son of the soil, Pema Lingpa, made this their home.
(The author has recently written Driving Holidays in the Himalayas: Bhutan)
The last stop is the National Textile Museum which showcases the traditional methods of weaving, and also offers items for sale. Since Bhutan is known for its creative and exotic stamps, those interested would find a visit to the Post Office an extremely rewarding experience.
If you're there over a weekend, see groups of archers in intense competition - this is a favoured sport and the large turnout is vociferous! Thimphu is also the base for several walks into the stunning countryside besides a day trip to the historic Punakha Dzong. The journey is across a 10,150ft pass called Dochu la, which is crowned by a striking collection of 109 chortens.
If you are willing to compromise a little on the comfort and food standards, venture further East to the Phobjika valley - the rare black-necked cranes migrate here for the winter. This is where Bhutan's natural beauty is at its grandest - almost sans tourists too.
Go even further East to the cultural capital Bumthang. The name is ascribed to the shape of the valley: 'bumpa' is an oblong vase of holy water placed at the altar of the lhakhang, while 'thang' is field or flat place. The Bumthang region is sacred and has the highest concentration of temples and monasteries. It embraced Buddhism in the 8th century when Guru Padmasambhava visited and its religious significance was enhanced when Nyingmapa saints including the son of the soil, Pema Lingpa, made this their home.
(The author has recently written Driving Holidays in the Himalayas: Bhutan)
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