Textile trails: A walk through the craft landscape of India

India’s indigenous weaves have drawn interest globally. The recent National Handloom Day, celebrated country wide on August 7, saw leading fashion experts talk about going beyond one specific day for handloom products and celebrate these crafts year long. The spread today abides by this ideology and brings trails that allow an insight into the many intricate weaves of our country. Many regions of our country have a distinct weave that’s meticulously woven on a handloom.

From Ikat, to Kalamkari, to Kanchupuram, to Gadwal and Mangalagiri, each textile brings alive a story of art which has lived through generations. A visit to a loom is a visual treat; it lets you interact with and watch the craftsmen work. You can club your visit to a region that house a loom with other spots of historic value to develop a wholesome understanding of culture and tradition.

A RENDEZVOUS WITH WEAVES
Where: Andhra Pradesh

What: A traditional Mangalagiri weave, decked with a zari border, is woven on a loom that uses a pit dug into the ground. The weaver uses the pedal, placed under the ground, to apply pressure to ensure an even, close-knit weave. Since the handlooms are labour intensive, most have been replaced with power looms. However, Guntur, Andhra Pradesh still houses a few handlooms. Observe the painstaking process, which begins right from dying of each thread to the final product being taken off the loom.

SPINNING TALES THROUGH TEXTILE
Where: Gujarat
What: Gujarat’s tale of weaves begin from the humble khadi and extend upto the rich Patola. Khadi, also known as ‘freedom fabric’, was part of Mahatma Gandhi’s movement towards self- reliance for post-colonial Indians, and both the process of production and the finished fabric are still venerated. Khadi fabric is available in various forms and the charkha is seen in many museums. Bandhani or Bandhej is another famous speciality of the state. This basic tie-dye work is available in various materials like cotton, georgette, and chiffon. The Patola silk from Patan is a revered fabric in the country. The authentic, double ikat Patola saree with all over motifs is a mark of tradition and grandeur. Observe the Patola silk in the State Government Emporium of Gujarat called the ‘Gurjari'. Further, you can also walk the rustic paths of the weavers’ village in Patan to see the fabric in making.

A MARK OF FAITH AND ROYALTY
Where: Tamil Nadu
What: The intricately embroidered Muthukuda also known as Kovil Kudai is a coloured parasol, which is an integral part of processions. This parasol has served as an icon of respect, acting as a shield for deities and envoy, seated upon the back of the elephant. In Chintadripet, an old section part of Chennai is home to a few businesses that have mastered the art of making these temple parasols. The history of the region dates back to 1734 when the British East India Company decided to manufacture woven cloth at a controlled price. A large area was used to house over 230 weaver families who helped produce cotton for export. The production continued much after the British left and many moved to the region in search of opportunities. A handful of families have kept this art alive who then used the textile to craft these parasols. Visit an establishment to view the making of these grand pieces of art and learn about its usage in temples and religious processions.

FABRICS THAT SHOWCASE A TALE OF CULTURE

Where: Tamil Nadu
What: Tamil Nadu’s Kanchipuram, Karaikudi, Gandhigram and Madurai make up an enriching textile route, renowned for its bright and contrasting silk and cotton weaves. Each of these region offer an insight into the unique tie-dye and weaving technique. Kanchipuram is dotted with numerous silk weaving factories that showcase sarees in dazzling colours with intricately designed gold borders. At Karaikudi, the Kandanghi sarees are woven, and Gandhigram still has the Khadi spinning centres set up by Gandhi. Lastly, Madurai’s markets are filled with the Chungadi sarees that draw cues from the Kolam and Rangoli patterns to showcase unique geometric prints in a darker colour palette of red, black, blue and purple.