New York, the hyper city
You can spend weeks in New York and still barely scratch the surface, but there are some key attractions - and some pleasures - that you can't miss.
By Naveena Israni, TNN |
If you're on a one-month travel extravaganza, it doesn't get any bigger than the Big Apple. One of the most vibrant megapolises on the globe, New York is an adrenaline-charged, history-laden place that holds immense appeal for all visitors. At the same time, I also found that it's the most beguiling city in the world, with its fair share of the poor and homeless, along with world-class museums, big statues, even bigger buildings, outrageous excess and a whole lot of bling!
But let's start at the beginning. We got an idea of how big a deal NY really was even before we left aamchi Mumbai! We had anticipated serpentine queues and tight security at the airport, but we certainly weren't prepared for an identity crisis! The thing is, I had carried both my old and new passports, and the Continental Airlines staff just couldn't recognise me as per my old passport photo as it was taken 15 years ago!
But let's start at the beginning. We got an idea of how big a deal NY really was even before we left aamchi Mumbai! We had anticipated serpentine queues and tight security at the airport, but we certainly weren't prepared for an identity crisis! The thing is, I had carried both my old and new passports, and the Continental Airlines staff just couldn't recognise me as per my old passport photo as it was taken 15 years ago!
I tried reasoning with them that they should check my new passport since it had my latest photo. But to no avail. After much deliberation and questioning, during which two staffers alternately stared at me and my passport for 15 minutes, I was identified by the infamous cut on my right eyebrow and 'cleared' to fly off to the US of A.
We boarded our non-stop flight to Newark Liberty International Airport, hoping to be pampered for the next 16 hours. In retrospect, that seems wishful thinking. Leave alone pampering, we weren't even served a glass of water for the first two hours, despite repeated pleas! It seemed the cabin crew just couldn't be bothered with lesser mortals like us, when they had more important customers to attend to in business class...
To make matters worse, the in-flight entertainment system was faulty. As a result, we saw a three-hour Bollywood blockbuster in one hour flat, because it was shown in fast-forward mode! The only service we got was during meal times, which was punctuated by repeated requests from an old Gujarati lady seated beside me!
Since she didn't know a word of English or Hindi, I had to continuously act as an interpreter between her and the air-hostess, enquiring about her food, wheel-chair and immigration requirements. By the time we landed, the old lady had adopted me as her daughter and bestowed me with enough blessings to last a lifetime! And so it was that our first trip to the US got off to an eventful start...
We were staying with my sister-in-law's family in Jersey City, just one station away from New York City. It was a cosy apartment overlooking the Hudson river, with a fantastic view of the Manhattan skyline. The only sound in this serene neighbourhood was the constant whirring of the security choppers patrolling the Hudson. Though there wasn't much to see in New Jersey, I found its peaceful charm quite endearing.
Whether it was driving through Harrison, or checking out the sprawling campuses of New Jersey Institute of Technology and Rutgers Institute at Newark, or bagging great discounts at Newport mall, Jersey Gardens mall, Macy's, Wal-Mart, BJ's and Shop Rite, or simply walking along the Pier... New Jersey really appealed to my senses in a way that very few can comprehend.
Nevertheless, New Jersey can never match up to the glitz and hyperactive buzz of New York. As first-time visitors, we found it fascinating how one 'Path' - the underground rail that runs below the Hudson, connecting NJ to NYC - can highlight the tale of two cities. New York's cacophony is as compelling as New Jersey's calmness.
NYC's constantly throbbing with activity and the people seem to be in a mad rush all the time. Whether it's the smart executive in a business suit, or the student working part-time for extra pocket money, or that uber-cool single mother who's toiled her way up the corporate ranks, everyone's always busy here.
It's hard to put a finger on what makes the place buzz so much, but the city's hyperactive rush keeps drawing more and more people to it. As a result, Manhattan is one of the most densely populated areas in the world. Wandering the streets here, you'll cut between high-rise buildings that are icons to the modern age - glass and steel giants of epic proportions, each of them stretching up into the sky, trying to outgrow its neighbours.
We boarded our non-stop flight to Newark Liberty International Airport, hoping to be pampered for the next 16 hours. In retrospect, that seems wishful thinking. Leave alone pampering, we weren't even served a glass of water for the first two hours, despite repeated pleas! It seemed the cabin crew just couldn't be bothered with lesser mortals like us, when they had more important customers to attend to in business class...
To make matters worse, the in-flight entertainment system was faulty. As a result, we saw a three-hour Bollywood blockbuster in one hour flat, because it was shown in fast-forward mode! The only service we got was during meal times, which was punctuated by repeated requests from an old Gujarati lady seated beside me!
Since she didn't know a word of English or Hindi, I had to continuously act as an interpreter between her and the air-hostess, enquiring about her food, wheel-chair and immigration requirements. By the time we landed, the old lady had adopted me as her daughter and bestowed me with enough blessings to last a lifetime! And so it was that our first trip to the US got off to an eventful start...
We were staying with my sister-in-law's family in Jersey City, just one station away from New York City. It was a cosy apartment overlooking the Hudson river, with a fantastic view of the Manhattan skyline. The only sound in this serene neighbourhood was the constant whirring of the security choppers patrolling the Hudson. Though there wasn't much to see in New Jersey, I found its peaceful charm quite endearing.
Whether it was driving through Harrison, or checking out the sprawling campuses of New Jersey Institute of Technology and Rutgers Institute at Newark, or bagging great discounts at Newport mall, Jersey Gardens mall, Macy's, Wal-Mart, BJ's and Shop Rite, or simply walking along the Pier... New Jersey really appealed to my senses in a way that very few can comprehend.
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Nevertheless, New Jersey can never match up to the glitz and hyperactive buzz of New York. As first-time visitors, we found it fascinating how one 'Path' - the underground rail that runs below the Hudson, connecting NJ to NYC - can highlight the tale of two cities. New York's cacophony is as compelling as New Jersey's calmness.
NYC's constantly throbbing with activity and the people seem to be in a mad rush all the time. Whether it's the smart executive in a business suit, or the student working part-time for extra pocket money, or that uber-cool single mother who's toiled her way up the corporate ranks, everyone's always busy here.
It's hard to put a finger on what makes the place buzz so much, but the city's hyperactive rush keeps drawing more and more people to it. As a result, Manhattan is one of the most densely populated areas in the world. Wandering the streets here, you'll cut between high-rise buildings that are icons to the modern age - glass and steel giants of epic proportions, each of them stretching up into the sky, trying to outgrow its neighbours.
The streets are notoriously hard to navigate and traffic is like nowhere else. To top it all, the constant blaring of sirens - be it the cops, ambulance or a fire engine - can really unnerve newcomers. And then there's Wall Street, with its famous Merrill Lynch Bull, George Washington statue, Trinity Church and of course, the New York Stock Exchange - the financial heart of the world.
You can spend weeks in New York and still barely scratch the surface, but there are some key attractions - and some pleasures - that you can't miss. The best way to explore the Big Apple is to take it in small bites, like we did.
Topmost on our list was of course, the Statue of Liberty - France's gift to USA, which has become one of America's most revered symbols. The statue is located on Liberty Island and can be reached via ferry from Battery Park in downtown Manhattan. Even though we went on a weekday, there were long queues and the atmosphere was almost festive.
You can spend weeks in New York and still barely scratch the surface, but there are some key attractions - and some pleasures - that you can't miss. The best way to explore the Big Apple is to take it in small bites, like we did.
Topmost on our list was of course, the Statue of Liberty - France's gift to USA, which has become one of America's most revered symbols. The statue is located on Liberty Island and can be reached via ferry from Battery Park in downtown Manhattan. Even though we went on a weekday, there were long queues and the atmosphere was almost festive.
The park was teeming with brightly-clad tourists; several people dressed as Lady Liberty were posing with the tourists. Colourful festoons adorned the trees; hot dogs and ice-cream were being sold briskly; cartoonists were doing caricatures in five minutes flat for $10; and musicians were entertaining the crowds by playing the saxophone, synthesiser, violin, drums or just plain karaoke!
It took us over an hour to board the ferry, after which it was a 15-minute ride to the island. Though we had seen it on TV many times, coming face-to-face with the sheer enormity of the real thing left us mesmerised. Including the base and pedestal, the statue stands 305 ft tall. The torch in her right hand is a symbol of enlightenment, while the seven spikes in her crown indicate the seven seas and continents and her broken shackles signify escape from tyranny. No wonder this statue has become a symbol of freedom throughout the world.
Another landmark you have to 'do' is the Empire State Building, the city's tallest skyscrape at 102 storeys. It juts out from the NY skyline like a torch...More so post-9/11...Of course the building became familiar to movie-buffs when the lovesick gorilla King Kong clung to its side with Fay Wray clutched in his hairy hand!
It took us one hour to reach the observation deck on the 86 th floor - the lift was fast, but the queue slow!). But it was worth the wait. As we stepped out on to the rooftop, the outside noise seemed to disappear and give way to a completely new, breathtaking world. The view was spectacular!
Thousands of twinkling lights sparkled in the night sky as New York City lay spread out in front of us - like a dream waiting to be explored. In that iconic moment, we understood why the Empire State is an inspiration to all its admirers...
Next on our agenda was a guided tour of the United Nations Building, which includes a visit to the chambers of Security Council, Trusteeship Council, Economic and Social Council and the General Assembly. The exhibits on decolonisation and disarmament left us in awe, even as we admired the various works of art, including tapestries, murals, mosaics and sculptures.
It took us over an hour to board the ferry, after which it was a 15-minute ride to the island. Though we had seen it on TV many times, coming face-to-face with the sheer enormity of the real thing left us mesmerised. Including the base and pedestal, the statue stands 305 ft tall. The torch in her right hand is a symbol of enlightenment, while the seven spikes in her crown indicate the seven seas and continents and her broken shackles signify escape from tyranny. No wonder this statue has become a symbol of freedom throughout the world.
Another landmark you have to 'do' is the Empire State Building, the city's tallest skyscrape at 102 storeys. It juts out from the NY skyline like a torch...More so post-9/11...Of course the building became familiar to movie-buffs when the lovesick gorilla King Kong clung to its side with Fay Wray clutched in his hairy hand!
It took us one hour to reach the observation deck on the 86 th floor - the lift was fast, but the queue slow!). But it was worth the wait. As we stepped out on to the rooftop, the outside noise seemed to disappear and give way to a completely new, breathtaking world. The view was spectacular!
Thousands of twinkling lights sparkled in the night sky as New York City lay spread out in front of us - like a dream waiting to be explored. In that iconic moment, we understood why the Empire State is an inspiration to all its admirers...
Next on our agenda was a guided tour of the United Nations Building, which includes a visit to the chambers of Security Council, Trusteeship Council, Economic and Social Council and the General Assembly. The exhibits on decolonisation and disarmament left us in awe, even as we admired the various works of art, including tapestries, murals, mosaics and sculptures.
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The most fascinating of these was the Norman Rockwell Mosaic - presented to the UN by Nancy Reagan in 1985 - which depicted the coming together of people from all religions. But the highlight of the tour was the sudden appearance of the UN Secretary-General, Ban Ki-moon, himself. He emerged from one of the chambers and waved to us as he passed us, smiling at our gaping faces!
A visit to NYC is incomplete without a trip to Central Park. Termed the city's backyard, it's an oasis for city-dwellers to relax, in the midst of nature. The park is huge - from 59th to 110th Street and is spread over 843 acres. It has meadows, lakes, boating, scenic hills, a wildlife centre, skating rink and even a castle! But navigating the park is quite confusing - in fact, I was relieved to see we weren't the only tourists who got lost and kept referring to the maps at each intersection!
Those interested in New York's seafaring past will enjoy walking through South Street Seaport, from where you can see the famous Brooklyn Bridge. As we walked down the port's cobblestone streets and toured the sailing vessels docked there, we were told this was the place where the opening scene of 'Kal Ho Na Ho' was shot, in which Preity Zinta was shown jogging. I made a mental note to tell my friends this bit of Bollywood trivia!
And finally, how can I forget the throbbing pulse of NYC, the spot that makes the city come alive like no other place on Earth -Times Square! My first glimpse of Times Square was at the stroke of the midnight hour just as I turned a year older. Yes! I ushered in my birthday on Times Square and it made for a memory of a lifetime! Bright neon lights and LED signs everywhere, huge digital video screens flashing thousands of live images, animated billboards vying for attention, along with the headquarters of Reuters, MTV, Viacom, Ernst & Young, Morgan Stanley, Lehman Brothers... I was in exalted company!
The most striking feature there was the curved seven-storey Nasdaq sign on 43 rd Street, which cost $37 million to build. Standing 120 ft tall, it's the world's largest live digital screen and is a spectacle in itself. As for tourists like us, the Madame Tussauds wax museum and Ripley's Believe It Or Not museum were also must-see attractions.
At all times of the day or night, Times Square is teeming with people, restaurants, hotels, and of course, the famous Broadway theatres. Eager to experience the magic of Broadway, we decided to watch the latest attraction, Mary Poppins, at the New Amsterdam theatre.
This musical adaptation about a magical English nanny was as good as Broadway musicals get. It was big, bright, full of life and loaded with one memorable song after another. Ashley Brown, who plays Mary Poppins, would have done Julie Andrews proud, while Gavin Lee, who plays Burt, has certainly made a mark with his Broadway debut. Apart from the excellent performances, the music, dance, costumes, staging and lighting was mind-blowing! As the sets kept changing seamlessly from one to the other, we were transported to a different world altogether!
There's lots more to see in NYC, be it the different ethnic neighbourhoods like lower Manhattan's Chinatown and Little Italy, or the more artsy SoHo (South of Houston), or the various museums scattered across the city. The most celebrated among these is the Metropolitan Museum of Art, or the 'Met'. The 2 million sq ft building houses many of the finest collections in the world: American, European paintings, Medieval and Renaissance art, Modern & Contemporary art, Islamic, Egyptian, Chinese, Japanese, Korean & Greek art, not to mention the impressive collection of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist canvases. Though I'm not much of an art connoisseur, I did notice that many of the works were by Pablo Picasso.
But what do you do in the Big Apple if you're not the sightseeing type? Shop, of course! It's the shopping capital of the world, with something for all budgets. The choice of shops is almost numbingly exhaustive in this heartland of the great capitalist dream. And the deals are there for the asking. There's some sale or the other: we bagged some great discounts during the Columbus Day sale!
The best way to sample the best shopping is to stroll down Fifth Avenue, filled with the best US and foreign brands - from Saks, Bergdorf Goodman, Tiffany's, Brook's Brother's and Harry Winston to Cartier, Gucci, LVMH, Versace, Prada and more!
A visit to NYC is incomplete without a trip to Central Park. Termed the city's backyard, it's an oasis for city-dwellers to relax, in the midst of nature. The park is huge - from 59th to 110th Street and is spread over 843 acres. It has meadows, lakes, boating, scenic hills, a wildlife centre, skating rink and even a castle! But navigating the park is quite confusing - in fact, I was relieved to see we weren't the only tourists who got lost and kept referring to the maps at each intersection!
Those interested in New York's seafaring past will enjoy walking through South Street Seaport, from where you can see the famous Brooklyn Bridge. As we walked down the port's cobblestone streets and toured the sailing vessels docked there, we were told this was the place where the opening scene of 'Kal Ho Na Ho' was shot, in which Preity Zinta was shown jogging. I made a mental note to tell my friends this bit of Bollywood trivia!
And finally, how can I forget the throbbing pulse of NYC, the spot that makes the city come alive like no other place on Earth -Times Square! My first glimpse of Times Square was at the stroke of the midnight hour just as I turned a year older. Yes! I ushered in my birthday on Times Square and it made for a memory of a lifetime! Bright neon lights and LED signs everywhere, huge digital video screens flashing thousands of live images, animated billboards vying for attention, along with the headquarters of Reuters, MTV, Viacom, Ernst & Young, Morgan Stanley, Lehman Brothers... I was in exalted company!
The most striking feature there was the curved seven-storey Nasdaq sign on 43 rd Street, which cost $37 million to build. Standing 120 ft tall, it's the world's largest live digital screen and is a spectacle in itself. As for tourists like us, the Madame Tussauds wax museum and Ripley's Believe It Or Not museum were also must-see attractions.
At all times of the day or night, Times Square is teeming with people, restaurants, hotels, and of course, the famous Broadway theatres. Eager to experience the magic of Broadway, we decided to watch the latest attraction, Mary Poppins, at the New Amsterdam theatre.
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This musical adaptation about a magical English nanny was as good as Broadway musicals get. It was big, bright, full of life and loaded with one memorable song after another. Ashley Brown, who plays Mary Poppins, would have done Julie Andrews proud, while Gavin Lee, who plays Burt, has certainly made a mark with his Broadway debut. Apart from the excellent performances, the music, dance, costumes, staging and lighting was mind-blowing! As the sets kept changing seamlessly from one to the other, we were transported to a different world altogether!
There's lots more to see in NYC, be it the different ethnic neighbourhoods like lower Manhattan's Chinatown and Little Italy, or the more artsy SoHo (South of Houston), or the various museums scattered across the city. The most celebrated among these is the Metropolitan Museum of Art, or the 'Met'. The 2 million sq ft building houses many of the finest collections in the world: American, European paintings, Medieval and Renaissance art, Modern & Contemporary art, Islamic, Egyptian, Chinese, Japanese, Korean & Greek art, not to mention the impressive collection of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist canvases. Though I'm not much of an art connoisseur, I did notice that many of the works were by Pablo Picasso.
But what do you do in the Big Apple if you're not the sightseeing type? Shop, of course! It's the shopping capital of the world, with something for all budgets. The choice of shops is almost numbingly exhaustive in this heartland of the great capitalist dream. And the deals are there for the asking. There's some sale or the other: we bagged some great discounts during the Columbus Day sale!
The best way to sample the best shopping is to stroll down Fifth Avenue, filled with the best US and foreign brands - from Saks, Bergdorf Goodman, Tiffany's, Brook's Brother's and Harry Winston to Cartier, Gucci, LVMH, Versace, Prada and more!
ADVERTISEMENT
One thing that struck me in NYC was that everyone's crazy about brands - but while someone swears by Banana Republic and The Gap, another wouldn't be caught dead in anything but Prada! But the quintessential brands that bind all New Yorkers together are Starbucks and Dunkin' Donuts. Whether you're walking down the street during peak office traffic, or taking the subway during rush hour, or travelling in those infamous yellow New York cabs, you'll have to be really short-sighted to miss either of them.
But one thing that NYC (and the whole of USA) lacks knowledge about is vegetarianism. Most people simply don't understand what this word means. I found this out the hard way when I asked for a veg burger at McDonald's. The attendant at the counter just stared at me blankly as though I had come from another planet!
When I elaborated by saying, "No meat, no fish, no egg," he got even more flustered and called his colleague for help. But the other chap was no better. On hearing my request, he promptly offered me a turkey sandwich! That's was the limit - I turned on my heel and fled...
The only vegetarian item that saw me through my stay in USA was cheese pizza. But before you get too optimistic, keep in mind that while cheese pizza has only cheese on it, a cheese burger has beef in it!
Another thing I learnt from the Big Apple is that someone's always watching you. Whether you're at the airport, shopping mall or subway, security cameras are constantly spying on your every move... which I discovered to my consternation at a secluded subway station one night.
I was waiting for an elevator, when suddenly, a voice emanated from nowhere. "Young lady, stop playing with the buttons!" I jumped in fright, frantically looking all around me, wondering who was speaking, and to whom. The stern command was repeated several times, before I realised it had come from a speaker near the elevator switch, and the person being spoken to was no one else, but me!
Apparently, someone waiting for the elevator before me had pressed the button several times, before running away. This had alerted the security camera mounted behind the elevator and since I was the only one standing at the scene of the crime, I was the likely culprit. I hastened to clarify my innocence and was let off with a stern warning. Phew! Uncle Sam's sure had his eyes on me...
I can go on and on about the 'Big' Apple, but words cannot describe its grand scale. Whether gazing at the flickering lights of midtown skyscrapers, or admiring the celebrated architecture of corporate Manhattan, or walking starstruck down Broadway, or simply idling away the morning on the Staten Island ferry, you would have to be made of stone not to be moved by it all.
While 9/11 shook the city to its core, the maverick quality of New York and its people still shines as brightly as ever. Some people may consider the Big Apple over-hyped, over-crowded, notoriously hyperactive and overtly fashion-conscious, while others may be awed by its iconic status, diversity, zest for life and glamour. But whether you love it, or hate it, one thing's for sure - you just can't ignore it!
But one thing that NYC (and the whole of USA) lacks knowledge about is vegetarianism. Most people simply don't understand what this word means. I found this out the hard way when I asked for a veg burger at McDonald's. The attendant at the counter just stared at me blankly as though I had come from another planet!
When I elaborated by saying, "No meat, no fish, no egg," he got even more flustered and called his colleague for help. But the other chap was no better. On hearing my request, he promptly offered me a turkey sandwich! That's was the limit - I turned on my heel and fled...
The only vegetarian item that saw me through my stay in USA was cheese pizza. But before you get too optimistic, keep in mind that while cheese pizza has only cheese on it, a cheese burger has beef in it!
Another thing I learnt from the Big Apple is that someone's always watching you. Whether you're at the airport, shopping mall or subway, security cameras are constantly spying on your every move... which I discovered to my consternation at a secluded subway station one night.
I was waiting for an elevator, when suddenly, a voice emanated from nowhere. "Young lady, stop playing with the buttons!" I jumped in fright, frantically looking all around me, wondering who was speaking, and to whom. The stern command was repeated several times, before I realised it had come from a speaker near the elevator switch, and the person being spoken to was no one else, but me!
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Apparently, someone waiting for the elevator before me had pressed the button several times, before running away. This had alerted the security camera mounted behind the elevator and since I was the only one standing at the scene of the crime, I was the likely culprit. I hastened to clarify my innocence and was let off with a stern warning. Phew! Uncle Sam's sure had his eyes on me...
I can go on and on about the 'Big' Apple, but words cannot describe its grand scale. Whether gazing at the flickering lights of midtown skyscrapers, or admiring the celebrated architecture of corporate Manhattan, or walking starstruck down Broadway, or simply idling away the morning on the Staten Island ferry, you would have to be made of stone not to be moved by it all.
While 9/11 shook the city to its core, the maverick quality of New York and its people still shines as brightly as ever. Some people may consider the Big Apple over-hyped, over-crowded, notoriously hyperactive and overtly fashion-conscious, while others may be awed by its iconic status, diversity, zest for life and glamour. But whether you love it, or hate it, one thing's for sure - you just can't ignore it!
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