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Bhutan: Haven of Tranquility
October and November are the perfect months to visit our Himalayan neighbour to the east. With azure skies and crisp, cool unpolluted air, Bhutan is an extraordinary country — a verdant paradise of just over 600,000 people, ruled by an enlightened Buddhist monarchy with one foot firmly set in its culturally rich past, the other in an appropriate future.
Landlocked and geographically isolated, the country began to tentatively reach out to the modern era only recently with roads being built in the 1960s and TV, Internet introduced only in 1999. At the turn of the century, the total number of tourists who visited the country was just 6,000!
Landlocked and geographically isolated, the country began to tentatively reach out to the modern era only recently with roads being built in the 1960s and TV, Internet introduced only in 1999. At the turn of the century, the total number of tourists who visited the country was just 6,000!
Bhutan: Haven of Tranquility
Little wonder then that Bhutan is often referred to as the last Shangri La — the fictional valley that James Hilton conjured for us in his classic novel Lost Horizons in the 1930s. In the novel, the task of the high lama was to ensure this valley remained well hidden, to protect its people and their culture and traditions from the corrupting influences of the modern world.
And Hilton obviously drew inspiration for his Shangri La from the Tibetan belief of ‘beyuls’ : hidden valleys scattered throughout the Himalayas and chosen by Guru Padmasambhava to remain havens of tranquility and serve as safe refuge for followers of Buddhism during times of turmoil and threatening calamities.
And Hilton obviously drew inspiration for his Shangri La from the Tibetan belief of ‘beyuls’ : hidden valleys scattered throughout the Himalayas and chosen by Guru Padmasambhava to remain havens of tranquility and serve as safe refuge for followers of Buddhism during times of turmoil and threatening calamities.
Bhutan: Haven of Tranquility
There are several valleys in Bhutan that live in a time warp even today, ready for when they will be called upon to act as the vaults for the culture of humanity. Indeed it is this strong sense of destiny that is imbued in the psyche of the nation — since its birth in the 15th century — that is responsible for the extremely wary and cautious stance it has adopted while engaging the global world of today.
This is a land of superb vistas ranging from the alpine to the tropical and magnificent architecture, epitomised in the dzongs (fortresses) across the country . Come prepared to meet and interact with a people who are dignified, extremely friendly, hospitable and disciplined; their religion and culture permeates every aspect of their life. Bhutan is ranked as one of the safest tourist destinations and has an extremely low crime rate. And people do not exhibit that irritating , invasive curiousity that you find in other places.
This is a land of superb vistas ranging from the alpine to the tropical and magnificent architecture, epitomised in the dzongs (fortresses) across the country . Come prepared to meet and interact with a people who are dignified, extremely friendly, hospitable and disciplined; their religion and culture permeates every aspect of their life. Bhutan is ranked as one of the safest tourist destinations and has an extremely low crime rate. And people do not exhibit that irritating , invasive curiousity that you find in other places.
Bhutan: Haven of Tranquility
The entire population is uniformly clad in their smart traditional attire — ‘gho’ for men and the ‘kira’ for women. It is almost de rigueur during the daytime but jeans and skirts come out in the evenings! The capital Thimphu has a pretty active night life with a couple of discos open till the wee hours!
Bhutan is an orderly country, particularly when compared to us, and if you follow the system (which is pretty easy to do) you can travel far and wide without any hassles. The national language is Dzongkha and, as our guide succinctly put it, “the international language is English” ! English is understood and spoken in most of the western region but a guide who interprets is useful in the central and eastern section. Good accommodation is available at the main tourist destinations but the local cuisine can get monotonous over a long stay.
Bhutan is an orderly country, particularly when compared to us, and if you follow the system (which is pretty easy to do) you can travel far and wide without any hassles. The national language is Dzongkha and, as our guide succinctly put it, “the international language is English” ! English is understood and spoken in most of the western region but a guide who interprets is useful in the central and eastern section. Good accommodation is available at the main tourist destinations but the local cuisine can get monotonous over a long stay.
Bhutan: Haven of Tranquility
This is a holy land with many tales of miracles and replete with myths and legends. Almost 80% of the population lives in villages and small hamlets, many located a few hours or even a day from the roadhead. They live off the land, following agrarian practices established aeons ago. Although Bhutan cannot be deemed a ‘rich’ country, King Jigme Singye Wangchuck introduced a unique philosophy of governance which seeks another kind of prosperity — a high Gross National Happiness (GNH), rather than GNP! There’s definitely reason to see the Land of the Thunder Dragon lest it becomes just another beautiful touristy place sometime in the future!
With the only airport located at Paro, one would naturally expect it to be a somewhat bustling township . Fortunately nothing could be farther from the truth. Paro has less than 3000 people! The market was built only in 1985 and stretches for about 500m. This is as ‘downtown’ as Paro gets and the rest of the place is charmingly rustic and tranquil.
With the only airport located at Paro, one would naturally expect it to be a somewhat bustling township . Fortunately nothing could be farther from the truth. Paro has less than 3000 people! The market was built only in 1985 and stretches for about 500m. This is as ‘downtown’ as Paro gets and the rest of the place is charmingly rustic and tranquil.
Bhutan: Haven of Tranquility
Willow-lined roads cut through cultivated fields tended by sturdy hard working farm folk with their colourful clothes and ready smiles. Roughly in the center of the valley lies the Paro Dzong (castle) — an awesome and impressive introduction to the world of dzongs... Magnificent even by today’s standards , the construction of this strategically located grand building began in 1644 and consecrated in 1646.
Visit the Dungtse Lhakhang which is possibly the only ancient temple built in the shape of a chorten (stupa) and is literally chained down since local belief holds that it will otherwise fly off to heaven! The paintings within were restored in the 18th century and are possibly the most extraordinary collection in all of Bhutan. The Ta (watchtower) Dzong lies above Paro Dzong and dates back to 1650.
It is a circular building that lay in disrepair till 1965 when the third monarch decided to establish the National Museum here. This is now a repository of not only precious works of art but also costumes, armour etc.
Visit the Dungtse Lhakhang which is possibly the only ancient temple built in the shape of a chorten (stupa) and is literally chained down since local belief holds that it will otherwise fly off to heaven! The paintings within were restored in the 18th century and are possibly the most extraordinary collection in all of Bhutan. The Ta (watchtower) Dzong lies above Paro Dzong and dates back to 1650.
It is a circular building that lay in disrepair till 1965 when the third monarch decided to establish the National Museum here. This is now a repository of not only precious works of art but also costumes, armour etc.
Bhutan: Haven of Tranquility
The next port of call is the historic Kyichu Lhakhang, 5km out of town. This Lhakhang has twin temples that stand together in a low-walled courtyard; the two are almost identical but built 13 centuries apart! The older temple is held in great reverence and carries depictions of the 12 acts of Buddha, his previous lives as also murals of the first 16 disciples (arhats). The new temple is dedicated to Guru Padmasambhava and the secret teachings (imparted only to his closest disciples), which make up the basic tenets of the Nyingma sect.
Paro is also the base for an excursion to Taktsang Monastery, one of the most revered in the Buddhist world. It is precariously tucked into a cliff face around 3000ft above the valley floor. Although it is a fairly steep climb to the base of this collation of six temples clinging to a vertiginous hill face, do not cry off. If there is an ‘absolutely-must-see’ place in Bhutan, this is it! The sanctuary was built by Nyingmapa lamas in the 14th century but a mysterious devastating fire in 1998 almost completely destoyed it. A long and extremely delicate rebuilding process was completed only in 2005.
Paro is also the base for an excursion to Taktsang Monastery, one of the most revered in the Buddhist world. It is precariously tucked into a cliff face around 3000ft above the valley floor. Although it is a fairly steep climb to the base of this collation of six temples clinging to a vertiginous hill face, do not cry off. If there is an ‘absolutely-must-see’ place in Bhutan, this is it! The sanctuary was built by Nyingmapa lamas in the 14th century but a mysterious devastating fire in 1998 almost completely destoyed it. A long and extremely delicate rebuilding process was completed only in 2005.
Bhutan: Haven of Tranquility
Bhutan’s capital Thimphu is spread along a willow-lined river and is unlike most capitals. I am struck by the absence of monstrous highrises. All structures are built according to the traditional style and embellished with beautiful paintings. With a population of only 80,000, the traffic density is low enough not to require traffic lights! Till it became the capital, Thimphu was a village and retained its rural character till the 1970s. However, it is now quite ‘happening’ with several bars and even a couple of discos!
There are some magnificent sights to see in this town and some superb drives around it. Start by visiting the National Memorial Chorten, built in 1974 in memory of the third king. With its golden spires gleaming in the sun and its large white dome framed by the lazuline sky it is definitely worth a ‘dekho’ . Driving along Gaden Lam, rise above the city to visit Changangkha Lhakhang which is one of the oldest temples in Thimphu, dating back to the 15th century. Festooned with colourful flags this lhakhang’s main statue is of Avalokiteswara and the tranquil meditative calm of this place makes time stand still...
There are some magnificent sights to see in this town and some superb drives around it. Start by visiting the National Memorial Chorten, built in 1974 in memory of the third king. With its golden spires gleaming in the sun and its large white dome framed by the lazuline sky it is definitely worth a ‘dekho’ . Driving along Gaden Lam, rise above the city to visit Changangkha Lhakhang which is one of the oldest temples in Thimphu, dating back to the 15th century. Festooned with colourful flags this lhakhang’s main statue is of Avalokiteswara and the tranquil meditative calm of this place makes time stand still...
Bhutan: Haven of Tranquility
The Trashichhoe Dzong was consecrated as late as 1969 and is the seat of government as well as of the religious order. With its superb sense of proportion and space this is a magnificent building. When Thimphu became the capital, the king ordered its complete renovation and expansion in 1962, leaving the central chapels and the utse (tower) untouched. The finish and attention to detail add to the building’s grand appearance; the outer walls are of well dressed and fitted granite, the courtyard is paved with rectangular stone slabs and at the four corners are elegant three-storey high towers.
I strongly recommend a half-day drive out of town, through beautiful wooded countryside, to a couple of other historic temples. The Pangri Zampa Temple Complex is about 10km away and has two imposing white buildings approached by a path past enormous cypress trees and along an elaborately decorated mani wall. Proceed around 4km further, forking uphill to the right, to reach Dechenphu Lhakhang. This eye-catching tall red gompa is dedicated to the powerful deity Gyenyen who looks after Bhutan in times of need. Going beyond the courtyard is not allowed but you can admire the ‘sinking rock’ after which Thimphu is named.
I strongly recommend a half-day drive out of town, through beautiful wooded countryside, to a couple of other historic temples. The Pangri Zampa Temple Complex is about 10km away and has two imposing white buildings approached by a path past enormous cypress trees and along an elaborately decorated mani wall. Proceed around 4km further, forking uphill to the right, to reach Dechenphu Lhakhang. This eye-catching tall red gompa is dedicated to the powerful deity Gyenyen who looks after Bhutan in times of need. Going beyond the courtyard is not allowed but you can admire the ‘sinking rock’ after which Thimphu is named.
Bhutan: Haven of Tranquility
Back in Thimphu there are more sights to take in... Start at the top — take the road to Motithang but turn right, heading towards the telecom tower that provides brilliant, clear views of the town and countryside. Heading back, stop for a few minutes at the ‘mini-zoo’ which is actually a large outdoor enclosure that holds one of the strangest looking creatures you are likely to ever see — the takin believed to be a combination of a goat and a cow!
Drive past the rolling greens of the golf course with the grand National Library on the opposite side. Just above the library is the Painting School, known more formally as the National Institute of Zorig Chusum that offers a six year course on Bhutan’s traditional crafts. Almost adjacent is the Folk Heritage Museum with its interior styled to resemble a typical farmhouse as it would have been a hundred years ago.
Drive past the rolling greens of the golf course with the grand National Library on the opposite side. Just above the library is the Painting School, known more formally as the National Institute of Zorig Chusum that offers a six year course on Bhutan’s traditional crafts. Almost adjacent is the Folk Heritage Museum with its interior styled to resemble a typical farmhouse as it would have been a hundred years ago.
Bhutan: Haven of Tranquility
The last stop is the National Textile Museum which showcases the traditional methods of weaving, and also offers items for sale. Since Bhutan is known for its creative and exotic stamps, those interested would find a visit to the Post Office an extremely rewarding experience.
If you’re there over a weekend, see groups of archers in intense competition – this is a favoured sport and the large turnout is vociferous ! Thimphu is also the base for several walks into the stunning countryside besides a day trip to the historic Punakha Dzong. The journey is across a 10,150ft pass called Dochu la, which is crowned by a striking collection of 109 chortens.
If you’re there over a weekend, see groups of archers in intense competition – this is a favoured sport and the large turnout is vociferous ! Thimphu is also the base for several walks into the stunning countryside besides a day trip to the historic Punakha Dzong. The journey is across a 10,150ft pass called Dochu la, which is crowned by a striking collection of 109 chortens.
Bhutan: Haven of Tranquility
If you are willing to compromise a little on the comfort and food standards, venture further East to the Phobjika valley – the rare black-necked cranes migrate here for the winter. This is where Bhutan’s natural beauty is at its grandest — almost sans tourists too.
Go even further East to the cultural capital Bumthang. The name is ascribed to the shape of the valley: ‘bumpa’ is an oblong vase of holy water placed at the altar of the lhakhang, while ‘thang’ is field or flat place. The Bumthang region is sacred and has the highest concentration of temples and monasteries. It embraced Buddhism in the 8th century when Guru Padmasambhava visited and its religious significance was enhanced when Nyingmapa saints including the son of the soil, Pema Lingpa, made this their home.
(By Koko Singh, the author has recently written Driving Holidays in the Himalayas: Bhutan)
Go even further East to the cultural capital Bumthang. The name is ascribed to the shape of the valley: ‘bumpa’ is an oblong vase of holy water placed at the altar of the lhakhang, while ‘thang’ is field or flat place. The Bumthang region is sacred and has the highest concentration of temples and monasteries. It embraced Buddhism in the 8th century when Guru Padmasambhava visited and its religious significance was enhanced when Nyingmapa saints including the son of the soil, Pema Lingpa, made this their home.
(By Koko Singh, the author has recently written Driving Holidays in the Himalayas: Bhutan)
Rome-ing on a budget
By: Vivek Sinha
By: Vivek Sinha
Rome has always been a dream destination . Maybe it is the rich history of the Roman civilisation or the breathtaking monuments and piazzas (public squares) or just the touristy aspect of watching the water flow from the Trevi Fountain, I had always wanted to be in this city.
Old photos of my uncle’s visit to Rome after a stint at Tripoli, had stuck in my mind since I was a boy. So when I woke up at Frankfurt to catch my early morning flight to the Eternal City it was just like a dream coming true.
A more immediate reason to cheer was a change. For the past four days I had been travelling around Germany and Luxembourg in what was a terrible weather with overcast skies and light drizzle. So when the window seat of my Ryanair flight allowed the first rays of sunshine in, it was pure bliss.
Old photos of my uncle’s visit to Rome after a stint at Tripoli, had stuck in my mind since I was a boy. So when I woke up at Frankfurt to catch my early morning flight to the Eternal City it was just like a dream coming true.
A more immediate reason to cheer was a change. For the past four days I had been travelling around Germany and Luxembourg in what was a terrible weather with overcast skies and light drizzle. So when the window seat of my Ryanair flight allowed the first rays of sunshine in, it was pure bliss.
Rome-ing on a budget
As the flight descended onto the tarmac of Ciampino, which is the low cost airport in Rome, I started rewinding all the travel research I had done. I had just two days to explore the city. While I knew it was not enough, I had much travelling to do through Tuscany so I couldn’t waste much time.
Fortunately the baggage transfer didn’t disappoint and my bag was the first to arrive. One critical thing for a tight budget Europe tour is not to waste money on cabs as the transport system is pretty well integrate and much easier on the wallet. But only if you don’t consider it infradig.
There are two ways to reach Rome (remember the old cliche about “all roads leading to... ”?) . One is to take a direct bus shuttle from the airport which is the easy way and costs about Euro5. The other is to take the bus to Anagnina metro station which is on the outskirts of Rome and takes 15 minutes. Then take the metro to Roma Termini, which is the main train station bang in the middle of the city.
Fortunately the baggage transfer didn’t disappoint and my bag was the first to arrive. One critical thing for a tight budget Europe tour is not to waste money on cabs as the transport system is pretty well integrate and much easier on the wallet. But only if you don’t consider it infradig.
There are two ways to reach Rome (remember the old cliche about “all roads leading to... ”?) . One is to take a direct bus shuttle from the airport which is the easy way and costs about Euro5. The other is to take the bus to Anagnina metro station which is on the outskirts of Rome and takes 15 minutes. Then take the metro to Roma Termini, which is the main train station bang in the middle of the city.
Rome-ing on a budget
To extract the best bargain I took the latter. Reaching Termini I bought a Roma Pass for Euro 20 from a tabacchi or a tobacco shop which also sells other knick-knacks and newspapers . The Roma Pass allows free entry to the first two tourist sites and discounts thereon apart from a three day unlimited free travel ticket on local transport. This is a must have for those on a short trip.
My hotel was just a five minutes walk from the Termini and after dropping my bag I quickly emerged to explore Rome. With a city map in hand I moved on to the Piazza della Repubblica which is two minutes from Termini. It isn’t one of the city’s ancient piazzas as it was constructed only a century ago, but it’s equally enchanting with the fountain of the Naiads with four nude bronze nymphs in the centre.
I heard that the nymphs had created a public stir when installed and it took a while before the water started flowing from the fountain as the figurines were considered too sensual for the time. For me it was a place to rest and absorb some sun before I moved on in what was the perfect temperature (around 25 degree C). On one side of the piazza there is the unusual looking exterior of a church that is dedicated to the Virgin Mary has a history....
My hotel was just a five minutes walk from the Termini and after dropping my bag I quickly emerged to explore Rome. With a city map in hand I moved on to the Piazza della Repubblica which is two minutes from Termini. It isn’t one of the city’s ancient piazzas as it was constructed only a century ago, but it’s equally enchanting with the fountain of the Naiads with four nude bronze nymphs in the centre.
I heard that the nymphs had created a public stir when installed and it took a while before the water started flowing from the fountain as the figurines were considered too sensual for the time. For me it was a place to rest and absorb some sun before I moved on in what was the perfect temperature (around 25 degree C). On one side of the piazza there is the unusual looking exterior of a church that is dedicated to the Virgin Mary has a history....
Rome-ing on a budget
Called the church of Santa Maria degli Angeli (and designed by Michelangelo), it is built in the remains of the Baths of Diocletian, the grand public bath of Rome. Even though I am not the least bit religious , I have done some stone sculpting in my school days and am an admirer of the Renaissance maestro, so I just had to take a dekko.
After a short look inside I took the metro to what is one of the biggest piazzas: the Piazza del Popolo, which means piazza of the people.
Rome is a small city by Indian standards and it takes just about 15-20 minutes to go halfway across the city by the metro. While the metro is efficient , the bogies’ exteriors are pretty much full of graffiti. The platforms are often very deep and I must have travelled up and down the longest escalators in my life in Rome.
Metro stations are just about half to 1 km apart. So pretty soon I ascended to marvel at the grand size of the piazza.
At the centre of the piazza there is the Egyptian obelisk of Rameses II, considered Egypt’s most powerful pharaoh. The obelisk was brought to Rome over 2,000 years ago and was originally set up at the Circus Maximus, more or less in the centre of the city. It was shifted at the Piazza del Popolo in the 16th century.
After a short look inside I took the metro to what is one of the biggest piazzas: the Piazza del Popolo, which means piazza of the people.
Rome is a small city by Indian standards and it takes just about 15-20 minutes to go halfway across the city by the metro. While the metro is efficient , the bogies’ exteriors are pretty much full of graffiti. The platforms are often very deep and I must have travelled up and down the longest escalators in my life in Rome.
Metro stations are just about half to 1 km apart. So pretty soon I ascended to marvel at the grand size of the piazza.
At the centre of the piazza there is the Egyptian obelisk of Rameses II, considered Egypt’s most powerful pharaoh. The obelisk was brought to Rome over 2,000 years ago and was originally set up at the Circus Maximus, more or less in the centre of the city. It was shifted at the Piazza del Popolo in the 16th century.
Rome-ing on a budget
One side of the piazza spreads out into three streets leading to various shopping points and one leads to the Spanish Steps. Walk or take the metro to the Spanish Steps, the stairway of 138 steps linking Piazza di Spagna at the base with the Piazza Trinità dei Moti.
I didn’t find anything spectacular about the steps; for me it is one of the tourist traps of Rome. Having said that I just had to see what made my all-time favourite singer Bob Dylan to mention it in one of his 70s classic songs! I found the Fountain of the Old Boat and the adjoining house to the Spanish Steps in which English poet John Keats lived and breathed his last, far more interesting.
Heading back towards the Piazza del Popolo I turned left towards the road leading to the Tiber river. Riversides have always attracted me, though that does not include the Yamuna , close to my flat in East Delhi. The Tiber didn’t impress me much either!
I didn’t find anything spectacular about the steps; for me it is one of the tourist traps of Rome. Having said that I just had to see what made my all-time favourite singer Bob Dylan to mention it in one of his 70s classic songs! I found the Fountain of the Old Boat and the adjoining house to the Spanish Steps in which English poet John Keats lived and breathed his last, far more interesting.
Heading back towards the Piazza del Popolo I turned left towards the road leading to the Tiber river. Riversides have always attracted me, though that does not include the Yamuna , close to my flat in East Delhi. The Tiber didn’t impress me much either!
Rome-ing on a budget
I moved on to Circus Maximus which was a mass entertainment centre behind the imperial palace of Palatine Hill, used for chariot racing in ancient Rome. Today it is a long green park in which occasional concerts are held. More often, though its the haunt of joggers and canoodling couples!
From Circus Maximus one can walk down to the Piazza Venezia. This place housed the embassy of the Republic of Venice. However, the most imposing part of the piazza is the Victor Emmanuel monument dedicated to the first king of unified Italy.
To the left of this is Trajan’s Forum. This is the last of the imperial forums which were basically central area around which ancient Rome expanded. Trajan’s Forum is also special for its Trajan Column which is a richly engraved pillar erected in 113 AD in honour of Emperor Trajan after his victory in the Dacian wars.
From Circus Maximus one can walk down to the Piazza Venezia. This place housed the embassy of the Republic of Venice. However, the most imposing part of the piazza is the Victor Emmanuel monument dedicated to the first king of unified Italy.
To the left of this is Trajan’s Forum. This is the last of the imperial forums which were basically central area around which ancient Rome expanded. Trajan’s Forum is also special for its Trajan Column which is a richly engraved pillar erected in 113 AD in honour of Emperor Trajan after his victory in the Dacian wars.
Rome-ing on a budget
At the end of a tiring day, thoughts naturally turn to food. The best way to have some Italian khana without being too lightened in the pocket is to get a slice from one of the pizzerias or small self service joints lining the streets. On average it costs about Rs 100-150 for a slice of pizza margherita. After having oodles of Italian noodles (read, spaghetti) in Frankfurt, I was looking for a more famous Italian gastronomic export.
If you want to indulge in the romanticism of Roman eating places, head for a ristorante, pretty much reminiscent of the encroached footpaths of Delhi. But it’s not really for budget travel given the service charge!
The other must try speciality is the gelato or homemade Italian ice-cream at gelaterias across Italy.
If you want to indulge in the romanticism of Roman eating places, head for a ristorante, pretty much reminiscent of the encroached footpaths of Delhi. But it’s not really for budget travel given the service charge!
The other must try speciality is the gelato or homemade Italian ice-cream at gelaterias across Italy.
Rome-ing on a budget
I didn’t find too much of a difference between various cities but the gelatos were fabulous, unlike any ice-cream I ‘ve ever had — maybe because of their distinctive flavours. On average they cost Euro1.5-2 .5 per scoop.
As for water, it’s easy in Italy. Just get a bottle and fill as you go at any of the water spouts — from a lion’s mouth or other figures! They are all drinkable, unless specified otherwise.
Another option for food are the kebab houses like in other parts of Europe today. In Italy most of them are operated by Bangladeshis. Our neighbours are also very prominent in running two other things: callbooths and cybercafes, which are pretty reasonable for making international calls. At about Rs 15 a minute to India, don’t bother to activate barbaric international roaming when in Rome! Bangladeshis also dominate the pavement markets, a.k.a. the fakes business.
As for water, it’s easy in Italy. Just get a bottle and fill as you go at any of the water spouts — from a lion’s mouth or other figures! They are all drinkable, unless specified otherwise.
Another option for food are the kebab houses like in other parts of Europe today. In Italy most of them are operated by Bangladeshis. Our neighbours are also very prominent in running two other things: callbooths and cybercafes, which are pretty reasonable for making international calls. At about Rs 15 a minute to India, don’t bother to activate barbaric international roaming when in Rome! Bangladeshis also dominate the pavement markets, a.k.a. the fakes business.
Rome-ing on a budget
After breakfast the next day it was time for me to check out the Colosseum. With a free entry because of the Roma Pass, (which also allowed me to skip the long queue to get the entry ticket) and with a rented Euro4 personal audio guide I went inside the amphitheatre.
I could only imagine the excitement of people watching men and exotic beasts fighting for their lives on the vast circular platform below. Unlike cinema halls, the front rows at the bottom were the premium slots; the lower your position in the society, the higher up your seat in the Colosseum! Senators had seats engraved with their names in the front row!
Apart from gladiator fights and contests there used to be enactment of battles and stages where put up. The multistoried amphitheatre completed under Titus in 80 AD also had multiple exit points at the ground level. Below the actual platform, which was a wooden floor covered with sand, was the hypogeum or the underground structure with tunnels to bring animals and gladiators into the arena.
I could only imagine the excitement of people watching men and exotic beasts fighting for their lives on the vast circular platform below. Unlike cinema halls, the front rows at the bottom were the premium slots; the lower your position in the society, the higher up your seat in the Colosseum! Senators had seats engraved with their names in the front row!
Apart from gladiator fights and contests there used to be enactment of battles and stages where put up. The multistoried amphitheatre completed under Titus in 80 AD also had multiple exit points at the ground level. Below the actual platform, which was a wooden floor covered with sand, was the hypogeum or the underground structure with tunnels to bring animals and gladiators into the arena.
Rome-ing on a budget
The Palatine Hill close by looked to me like a talian version of our very own Harappa. It is like a large mound strewn with excavations and pathways for tourists, though I found several people walking where they were not supposed to. One side of the Palatine Hill overlooks Circus Maximus too.
There is a combined entry ticket for Palatine Hill and the Colosseum for about Euro12 and if you don’t have a Roma Pass, go to Palatine Hill first. The place is not too crowded for tickets so you can beat the queues at the Colosseum by buying the ticket at the Palatine Hill instead!
My virtual world friends said it would be a shame to visit Rome and not see the St Peter’s Basilica. So there I was at the Vatican City and St Peters Square where it is believed St Peters was crucified upside down after the Roman Fire of 64 AD. The square looks magnificent with the basilica at the background.
There is a combined entry ticket for Palatine Hill and the Colosseum for about Euro12 and if you don’t have a Roma Pass, go to Palatine Hill first. The place is not too crowded for tickets so you can beat the queues at the Colosseum by buying the ticket at the Palatine Hill instead!
My virtual world friends said it would be a shame to visit Rome and not see the St Peter’s Basilica. So there I was at the Vatican City and St Peters Square where it is believed St Peters was crucified upside down after the Roman Fire of 64 AD. The square looks magnificent with the basilica at the background.
Rome-ing on a budget
According to my audio guide at the Colosseum, after the Christian takeover which led to the end of the deadly games at the Colosseum, parts of the amphitheatre were cannibalised to be used during the construction of other monuments including the St Peter’s Basilica.
Visiting Vatican also reminded me that it is not just Hindus who have an ostentatious religion. The Vatican museum has some of the richest art collections in the world. The long queues for entering this easily beats all temple queues I can think of in India. Then there is the Sistine Chapel too.
My earlier plan was to visit the Borghese Gallery as it would have been free entry with the Roma Pass. That’s what everyone does to get the most out of the pass, as the Colosseum and the Gallery have the most expensive tickets . Unfortunately the Gallery was closed (Monday!) and I hadn’t factored that in.
Visiting Vatican also reminded me that it is not just Hindus who have an ostentatious religion. The Vatican museum has some of the richest art collections in the world. The long queues for entering this easily beats all temple queues I can think of in India. Then there is the Sistine Chapel too.
My earlier plan was to visit the Borghese Gallery as it would have been free entry with the Roma Pass. That’s what everyone does to get the most out of the pass, as the Colosseum and the Gallery have the most expensive tickets . Unfortunately the Gallery was closed (Monday!) and I hadn’t factored that in.
Rome-ing on a budget
I had also planned to visit the famed beaches on the outskirts of the city. I was told they have natural beauty of many kinds... a must-see for beach lovers. For the more adventurous, I believe, there is also the nude beach,Capocotta, closeby ! However, I was pretty tired after a long day and skipped the beach plan altogether.
As I was closing on to my last evening in Rome I planned to visit the Trevi Fountain at night and in the morning too.
The place was jam-packed with tourists at night and looked more beautiful with the lights on. Its a 10 minutes walk from the metro station at Barberini Fontana di Trevi. There is a small fountain right next to the metro station and people do take this to be the Trevi! However, the lack of tourists there is a give away.
The next morning I had just 2 hours to check out two places. One was the Pantheon, which is associated with Greece and is basically Temple to all Gods. In Rome it was constructed by Hadrian and also houses the tombs of Raphael and even the Italian king Victor Emmanuel. The Pantheon is just 5 minutes from the Trevi Fountain, which alas was partially closed for cleaning in the morning, so I couldn’t throw the ustomary coin in and make a wish....
As I was closing on to my last evening in Rome I planned to visit the Trevi Fountain at night and in the morning too.
The place was jam-packed with tourists at night and looked more beautiful with the lights on. Its a 10 minutes walk from the metro station at Barberini Fontana di Trevi. There is a small fountain right next to the metro station and people do take this to be the Trevi! However, the lack of tourists there is a give away.
The next morning I had just 2 hours to check out two places. One was the Pantheon, which is associated with Greece and is basically Temple to all Gods. In Rome it was constructed by Hadrian and also houses the tombs of Raphael and even the Italian king Victor Emmanuel. The Pantheon is just 5 minutes from the Trevi Fountain, which alas was partially closed for cleaning in the morning, so I couldn’t throw the ustomary coin in and make a wish....
Rome-ing on a budget
Instead, I rushed off to buy souvenirs of the Colosseum from a place close to the church of Santa Maria Maggiore, again just 5 minutes from the Termini. If you will visit other places in Italy, don’t buy the usual replica of the Leaning Tower of Pisa or the mask of Venice in Rome. Its better to stick to the Colosseum in Rome; the others are much cheaper in their respective cities!
Rome was obviously not built in a day; nor is it possible to explore it all in two days! I still have the penny which I had saved to throw into the Trevi Fountain. That’s not a problem — I know I will return to the city again.
Rome was obviously not built in a day; nor is it possible to explore it all in two days! I still have the penny which I had saved to throw into the Trevi Fountain. That’s not a problem — I know I will return to the city again.
Lovin’ Tokyo
BY Bidisha Bagchi
BY Bidisha Bagchi
Tokyo very clearly makes two impressions on visitors: love it or hate it. Love it because of its style and glamour and hate it because of its claustrophobic atmosphere and lack of greenery.
Tokyo isn’t a city for the usual kind of sightseeing; yet there are loads of things that can be seen and done. Even though the city was razed by earthquakes, fires and wartime bombing raids, on each occasion, Tokyo has recovered and has grown with unimaginable speed.
Futuristic places like the Odaiba have come up, along with glittering lanes and by-lanes , sleek and slender skyscrapers and the super polished multilevel flyovers snaking around the city. Can I hide it? I just loved Tokyo!!!
Tokyo isn’t a city for the usual kind of sightseeing; yet there are loads of things that can be seen and done. Even though the city was razed by earthquakes, fires and wartime bombing raids, on each occasion, Tokyo has recovered and has grown with unimaginable speed.
Futuristic places like the Odaiba have come up, along with glittering lanes and by-lanes , sleek and slender skyscrapers and the super polished multilevel flyovers snaking around the city. Can I hide it? I just loved Tokyo!!!
Lovin’ Tokyo
Discovering the city mainly revolves around checking out a few excellent locations but there are a couple of places that were a little unusual than the common tourist attractions. The Sony Building and the Honda Welcome Plaza were two such places where we spent time admiring and interacting with the electronics and automobile ‘wonders’ of Japan.
Located in the Ginza district of Tokyo, the Sony Building is a magnificent highrise. It is very popular among visitors and we like all, thronged to have a ‘dekko’ at the newest and yet unreleased gizmos that Sony had to offer.
The building has four floors of showrooms and amusements. The latest in videos, digital cameras, HDTVs, DVD players, laptops are all on display. We could even shoot for a film clip that would be shown as promotion during the FIFA quarter finals in South Africa in 2008. It was fun as the entire place was very interactive.
Located in the Ginza district of Tokyo, the Sony Building is a magnificent highrise. It is very popular among visitors and we like all, thronged to have a ‘dekko’ at the newest and yet unreleased gizmos that Sony had to offer.
The building has four floors of showrooms and amusements. The latest in videos, digital cameras, HDTVs, DVD players, laptops are all on display. We could even shoot for a film clip that would be shown as promotion during the FIFA quarter finals in South Africa in 2008. It was fun as the entire place was very interactive.
Lovin’ Tokyo
The Honda Welcome Tower in the Minato-ku region on the other hand, showcased the latest in Honda cars and motorcycles. Anyone who has the slightest interest in cars and bikes are sure to be floored by the display of aerodynamic models.
The best part in this plaza was our interaction with ‘ASIMO’ , (Advanced Step in Innovative MObility) or Honda's 9 year old humanoid robot. It walked, danced, climbed up and down the stairs, so smoothly and had such humanlike grace and behaviour that anyone could initally mistake it to be a human dressed as a robot.
The best part in this plaza was our interaction with ‘ASIMO’ , (Advanced Step in Innovative MObility) or Honda's 9 year old humanoid robot. It walked, danced, climbed up and down the stairs, so smoothly and had such humanlike grace and behaviour that anyone could initally mistake it to be a human dressed as a robot.
Lovin’ Tokyo
But it was genuinely a machine that is the latest feather in the cap of Honda. Its amazing performance and movements are displayed to the public at scheduled times and it was fantastic. We found the robot extremely adorable and wished he felt emotions too. You never know, may be five years later ASIMO might just understand a joke and laugh at it...After all, ts Japan is famous for cutting-edge technology!
The heart and soul of Tokyo is, of course, the Imperial Palace, the residence of Emperor Akihito. Even though the palace was destroyed during WWII air raids, it was rebuilt in the traditional Japanese architectural style. We did a tour of the palace with English audio guides that took us past official buildings, the inner moat, historic fortifications and the Nijubashi Bridge.
The heart and soul of Tokyo is, of course, the Imperial Palace, the residence of Emperor Akihito. Even though the palace was destroyed during WWII air raids, it was rebuilt in the traditional Japanese architectural style. We did a tour of the palace with English audio guides that took us past official buildings, the inner moat, historic fortifications and the Nijubashi Bridge.
Lovin’ Tokyo
Tokyo’s most famous landmark, the Tokyo Tower was modeled after the Eiffel Tower of Paris. Basically a relay station for TV and radio stations, the tower has two observatories at different levels that give a bird’s eye view of the city.
At the base there are a few other attractions for child visitors — obviously accompanied by parents — like a wax museum of Hollywood stars, a medieval torture chamber, a small aquarium, a museum of holography and a trick art gallery.
At the base there are a few other attractions for child visitors — obviously accompanied by parents — like a wax museum of Hollywood stars, a medieval torture chamber, a small aquarium, a museum of holography and a trick art gallery.
Lovin’ Tokyo
The shopping selection is obviously wonderful given that it is Japan. From electronics to electricals, textiles to kimonos, Japanese art & craft, and pearls to other jewellery , its all there — if your wallet can withstand it... Ginza, in fact, is the most celebrated shopping area of Tokyo with countless shopping plazas and boutiques.
For electronics and computer related stuff, other than branded showrooms, we found Akhibara to be very sound. For bargain hunters looking for watches, porcelain, scrolls, glassware and kimonos and at the same time sampling the delicacies of Japan, Nakamise shopping arcade and Ameyoko were the best options. There is even a lovely Tasaki pearl gallery where we got to see the process by which pearl was cultivated.
For electronics and computer related stuff, other than branded showrooms, we found Akhibara to be very sound. For bargain hunters looking for watches, porcelain, scrolls, glassware and kimonos and at the same time sampling the delicacies of Japan, Nakamise shopping arcade and Ameyoko were the best options. There is even a lovely Tasaki pearl gallery where we got to see the process by which pearl was cultivated.
Lovin’ Tokyo
The variety of food from around the globe available in Tokyo is amazing. Besides innumerable sushi and sashimi bars and food courts are strewn around the city. There’s even our very own Moti Darbar in Minato-ku with authentic Punjabi khana! For Japanese food, the choice is unlimited, from roadside eateries to topend restaurants, all serving authentic noodles, sashimi, tempura, yakitori and kaiseki.
On a sunny autumn afternoon we headed for Odaiba, Tokyo’s artificial yet hi-tech and futuristic waterfront, grabbed an outdoor table overlooking the magnificently blue bay, sipping a hot cup of Japanese tea till the sun set. Then the lit up place was transformed to a sort of fairyland.
At other times we happily wandered around, lazed, shopped, ate and admired the beautiful city, relished sushi and watched a geisha and kabuki show till it was time to say ‘sayonara’ ....!
On a sunny autumn afternoon we headed for Odaiba, Tokyo’s artificial yet hi-tech and futuristic waterfront, grabbed an outdoor table overlooking the magnificently blue bay, sipping a hot cup of Japanese tea till the sun set. Then the lit up place was transformed to a sort of fairyland.
At other times we happily wandered around, lazed, shopped, ate and admired the beautiful city, relished sushi and watched a geisha and kabuki show till it was time to say ‘sayonara’ ....!
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