Taiwan: The land of tea brewers and drinkers by the gallon

It had been pouring in sheets as the clouds enveloped the mountains of Yangmingshan National Park. I felt chilly and yearned for the confines of a warm room when Francis, a 60-year-old Taiwanese, suggested, “Would you have some cha?” I looked at him in amusement while he enlightened, “Tea?” Yes, chai is a brew that I can have anytime especially on a chilly day like this.

We walked into a small restaurant at Tien Lai resort where patrons were enjoying their breakfast with different kinds of tea. As I took a sip of my reddish-brown drink, I couldn’t sense the astringency of tea. It was a sweet decoction with a tang of ginger. I questioned Francis, “Is this drink made of tea?” He knowingly smiled and replied “Well, tea needn’t always be prepared with tea leaves, this is ginger tea but isn’t made of tea leaves.” For the first time I heard a new definition of tea.

Tea, Tea Everywhere
I was in Taiwan, exploring its hinterland and countryside. Wherever I went, there was tea, which the Taiwanese savoured regularly in different forms. In the night markets of Taipei, I found stalls selling Pearl Milk Tea or Bubble Tea. Made of black tea, milk and pearls of tapioca, this concoction is said to have originated in Taichung. At Miaoli, after having a Hakka meal, I relished a tub of Jelly Tea, prepared with gelatin, dates, dragon eye and the ubiquitous tea.


Francis reasoned: tea is deeprooted in their culture. Go to the villages across Taiwan and you would find folks huddled, making tea and having an active social life. That is their way of bonding over umpteen cups in a day. Tea preparation is an art that is acquired through practice until it just doesn’t tickle your taste buds but also satisfies your soul.

“Tea masters take years to learn the skill which we call Kung Fu or Gongfu. You should experience a tea ceremony to understand the culture,” Francis said. That evening I delved into the cyber world to comprehend the term Kung Fu, which Wikipedia says is a skill acquired through practice that does not necessarily relate to the martial art.

Next morning we headed to Chun Shui Tang teahouse at Taichung, which claims to have invented Bubble Tea. A quaint little boutique with rustic settings, it spoke volumes of tranquillity. Small enclaves were set up as clients on low-seat benches tried their hands at tea-making. Colourful teapots, kettles and teacups were displayed on racks across the wall. Tea of different varieties and grades were available for sale.

Taiwan produces three different types of tea — green, black and their prized possession, the oolong. These are further classified based on the regional origin, seasonality and processing method. I sat on one of the benches and waited for the tea master to arrive. The table had been set for a typical tea ceremony. On a tea boat — a platform where most of the action takes place — were teacups and snifter cups besides a ceramic teapot.

Steam wafted from the kettle placed on an earthen stove when the tea master, Chen who had been practising the art for the last 20 years, arrived. He sat across the table and conducted the ceremony with a calm demeanour.

A Shot of Culture
The quality of the brew is determined by the temperature, quantity of tea leaves used and the period it is soaked for. It is like a see-saw and the right balance gives the perfect cha, muttered the master. I listened and watched him in awe as he went about the preparation. First hot water was poured into the teapot and teacups to rinse them. This action ensures warming of the pot and cups.

Tea leaves of the oolong kind were then passed around so that we could appreciate its appearance and smell. The master then put the leaves into the teapot.

Hot water was poured into it and left to steep for a few seconds. The first infusion was then poured into snifter cups and smelt but not consumed. The second infusion that was prepared was again poured into snifter cups and, after appreciating its aroma, was then transferred to the teacups for guests to drink in three sips.

First sip is primarily to rinse the mouth, the second sip actually brings out the taste of the cha and the last sip is to enjoy the aftertaste and empty the cup.

The ceremony was a transcendental experience conducted with grace and subtle fluidic movements. I wondered if the master was in a state of meditation as the ritual was performed with a relaxed mind and utmost devotion. That is when it dawned on me, therapeutic experiences made one appreciate the simple pleasures of life like a cup of cha. As I swirled my cha and pondered over the magical elixir, Francis looked at me and whispered, “Didn’t I tell you our cha is more than a drink?”.

Sankari is a Pune-based travel writer