Runaway climate change: UK fast fashion brands ASOS & Missguided will now have to pay plastic tax

Most of the clothes contain synthetic fabrics like nylon, acrylic and elastane.

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Models walk the runway at the finale of the Paul Costelloe show during London Fashion Week February 2021 at The Waldorf London on February 12, 2021 in London, England.
LONDON: Half of fast fashion items sold by popular British online brands including Boohoo and Missguided are made entirely from non-recycled plastics like polyester, a think-tank said on Friday as it urged the government to slap a tax on such garments.

Most of the clothes contain synthetic fabrics like nylon, acrylic and elastane, which are made with fossil fuels and damage the environment through emissions and waste, the Royal Society of Arts, Manufactures and Commerce (RSA) said.

"These fabrics ... form part of a petrochemical economy which is fuelling runaway climate change and pollution," said Josie Warden, the RSA's head of regenerative design and co-author of its report "Fast Fashion's Plastic Problem".


Britain's throwaway culture means most fast fashion will end up in landfill where it could take thousands of years to break down, said the RSA, which works to find solutions to social challenges.

Published ahead of the start of London Fashion Week on Saturday, the report said fast fashion companies were too slow to adopt recycled materials.

Only 1% of clothing on PrettyLittleThing's website contained recycled materials, 2% on Boohoo, 4% on ASOS and 5% on Missguided, according to RSA's analysis of 10,000 items recently listed by the brands.
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It accused fast fashion companies of "greenwashing" their images by producing small sustainable ranges, while most of their products were made from petrochemicals, whose use must be curtailed to combat climate change.

ASOS said it was not a fast fashion brand, designed clothes to last and educated customers on prolonging the life of garments. Other companies did not immediately respond to requests for comment.

The study found 89% of merchandise on PrettyLittleThing's site contained new plastics, 84% on Boohoo and Missguided, and 65% on ASOS.

Overall, 49% of garments were entirely made of new plastics, rising to 60% for Boohoo.
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With the use of synthetic fibres in fashion doubling between 2000 and 2020, the report said Britain - which is hosting the global COP26 climate summit in November - must take action to create a more sustainable fashion system.

"The sheer volume of clothing produced by these websites is shocking - we should see many of these items, which go for rock-bottom prices, as akin to other short-lived plastics," Warden said.
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"The nature of fast fashion trends means they are not designed to have long lives in our wardrobes."

The RSA said income from a tax on clothing containing virgin plastics could be invested in creating new materials, recycling and boosting more sustainable production.

The authors said most shoppers were unaware of the scale of plastic use in fast fashion.

They called for brands to publish regular statistics on how much plastic goes into their garments and explore ways of promoting second-hand clothing.

Tees That Talk: Fashion As A Political Tool Has Always Been About Optics, Subliminal Cues And Nuance
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Anyone who says fashion is not political has not noticed the length of former American president Donald Trump’s red ties or thinks US Vice-President Kamala Harris’ sneakers-with-suits look is happenstance.

From the suffragette white and the keffiyeh as a symbol of Palestinian self-determination to Che’s beret and Time’s Up bracelets, fashion as a political tool has always been about optics, subliminal cues and nuance. But it’s never hidden, in fact it’s all about wearing your ideology on your sleeve. And nowhere is this more evident than in the slogan T-shirt — an incredibly visible vehicle used by people to voice opinions or support movements. Every protest or social movement has produced a talking T-shirt.

Here’s a short history of the tee that talks.

Anyone who says fashion is not political has not noticed the length of former American president Donald Trump’s red ties or thinks US Vice-President Kamala Harris’ sneakers-with-suits look is happens..
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Writer Scott Fitzgerald used the word T-shirt possibly for the first time in his 1920 novel 'This Side of Paradise'. However, it was after World War II that the message potential of a T-shirt was unleashed. In 1948, Republican presidential candidate Thomas Dewey emblazoned T-shirts with “Dew it with Dewey”. He lost to Harry Truman. But the slogan T-shirt won.

In 2018, London’s Fashion and Textile Museum opened an exhibition “T-shirt: CultCulture-Subversion” with 200 iconic T-shirts that changed the status of what was originally an undergarment. In an interview to BBC.com, curator Dennis Nothdruft said, “[The T-shirt] is a really basic way of telling the world who and what you are… it was a matter of the personal as politicised.”

Writer Scott Fitzgerald used the word T-shirt possibly for the first time in his 1920 novel 'This Side of Paradise'. However, it was after World War II that the message potential of a T-shirt was unl..
Read More

In India, various protests have given us slogan tees although a lot of it is not organised and is put up on online shops outside of India.

But “No Farmers, No Food, No Future” is a popular slogan as was “Sab Yaad Rakha Jayega” during the CAA-NRC protests. With the easy availability of digital printing, anyone can start a T-shirt campaign.

For instance, comedian Kunal Kamra launched his line of “Wah Modiji Wah” T-shirts in 2018 while "Hindi Theriyathu Poda" (I Don’t Understand Hindi, Get Lost) tees by MP Kanimozhi went viral in 2020 after a CISF personnel at Chennai airport had asked her if she was Indian after she said she did not know Hindi.

In India, various protests have given us slogan tees although a lot of it is not organised and is put up on online shops outside of India. But “No Farmers, No Food, No Future” is a popular slogan as ..
Read More

In the UK, designers Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren used tee shirt as a blank canvas for punk ideology. The UK’s punk movement was rooted in a general social malaise among British youth. Westwood and McLaren’s T-shirts tackled everything from religion to fascism.

By 1973, The New York Times dubbed the T-shirt as “the medium for the message”.

In the UK, designers Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren used tee shirt as a blank canvas for punk ideology. The UK’s punk movement was rooted in a general social malaise among British youth. Westw..
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Critics call it the fourth-wave feminism slogans. The Fawcett Society, with Elle UK, took out a T-shirt with the slogan “This is what a Feminist looks Like”, designed mainly for men to wear.

In Spring/Summer 2017, Dior sent out “We Should All Be Feminists” T-shirts on to the ramp, designed by the first female head designer Maria Grazia Churi. The slogan is a reference to Nigerian writer Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie’s book of the same name.

In 2018, designer Prabal Gurung made “The Future is Female” line of tees.

Critics call it the fourth-wave feminism slogans. The Fawcett Society, with Elle UK, took out a T-shirt with the slogan “This is what a Feminist looks Like”, designed mainly for men to wear. In Sprin..
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Maison Margiela was one of the first names to make T-shirt activism fashionable when he used tees to spread AIDS awareness in Fall/Winter 1994. In 2001, upscale streetwear label Supreme released T-shirts to generate aid for 9/11 victims.

In 2020, it joined forces with Takashi Murakami to raise money for Covid-19 relief. Nike too has a running “BeTrue” campaign of clothing and sneakers to show support with the LGBTQ+ community. Starting in 2006, Marc Jacobs released a series of T-shirts featuring various celebrities posing naked to raise awareness and funds for skin cancer.

Maison Margiela was one of the first names to make T-shirt activism fashionable when he used tees to spread AIDS awareness in Fall/Winter 1994. In 2001, upscale streetwear label Supreme released T-sh..
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The affordability of the T-shirt and its widespread adoption made it a symbol for political activism throughout the 1960s — from the Civil Rights Movement to the Vietnam War. In 1968, Harvard students wore anti-war T-shirts during sitins. Around the same time, the NAACP and Black Panther Party too used T-shirts to promote its agenda. Since then, T-shirts have been part of the Black protest tradition, latest being Black Lives Matter.

The affordability of the T-shirt and its widespread adoption made it a symbol for political activism throughout the 1960s — from the Civil Rights Movement to the Vietnam War. In 1968, Harvard student..
Read More

In 1984, designer Katharine Hamnett wore a slogan tee that read “58% Don’t Want Pershing” while shaking hands with UK's then prime minister Margaret Thatcher to make an anti-thermonuclear war statement. Hamnett contributed to the rise of protest clothing in her signature style — oversized, bold, black font on white cotton T-shirts with slogans like “Choose Life” to “Save The World” to recently “Cancel Brexit”.

She told The Guardian, “I wanted to put a really large message on T-shirts that could be read from 20 or 30 ft away. Slogans work on so many different levels…They are also a way of people aligning themselves to a cause. They are tribal. Wearing one is like branding yourself.”

In 1984, designer Katharine Hamnett wore a slogan tee that read “58% Don’t Want Pershing” while shaking hands with UK's then prime minister Margaret Thatcher to make an anti-thermonuclear war stateme..
Read More

In the late 1980s, the African National Congress (ANC) used T-shirt with graphics calling to end the Apartheid in South Africa, or with portraits of the then imprisoned Nelson Mandela. It was a way for people to voice support or even make an informal donation to ANC — a major turning point in T-shirt activism as it was now used to raise funds.

In the late 1980s, the African National Congress (ANC) used T-shirt with graphics calling to end the Apartheid in South Africa, or with portraits of the then imprisoned Nelson Mandela. It was a way f..
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