Rasgulla, Mysore Pak & Golgappa: India’s palate is an unusual fusion of history, flavour & myth

India is celebrating its 76th anniversary of Independence Day. We have grown by leaps and bounds. The multitudes of languages, cultures and people of India have set a remarkable example for the rest of the world to follow. Along with cultural diversity, India has been a heaven for gourmands.

From aromatic spices to flavourful desserts, India promises plenty. Food in India truly inspires national and civic pride. Some of the delicacies recount tales of valour, while some have led to long-standing rivalries between states and cities. These bitter-sweet rivalries are more often about the claims made by states on the invention (and origin) of certain delicacies.

In the last few years, social media has witnessed numerous jugalbandi of claims and counter-claims over who owns what, and more importantly who eats what the right way! Even as the virtual realm engaged in endless banter, people on the streets relished the same foods that had caused arguments in a parallel world.


Rasgulla or Rosogulla?
What’s in the name? A spoonful of this syrupy dessert is enough for one to forget the cares of this world. Rasgulla, popular in the Bengal region, is a sweet dish that has graced the kitchens of every household across the length and breadth of India. Essentially a dumpling made of Indian cottage cheese, semolina and syrup made of sugar, it is one of the most favourite dishes enjoyed across the country.

The sugary delight and its origins have been a point of contention. Two versions of the origin: Historians from Odisha claim that Rasagulla was invented in Puri as Khira Mohana, a bhog offered to Goddess Lakshmi. The Khira Mohana later evolved in Pahal Rasgulla.

On the other hand, those in West Bengal believe that the sweet was invented in the state in 1868 by confectioner Nobin Chandra Das in Kolkata.

Das is not alone, several reports over the years have attributed the invention of Rasagulla to individuals such as Braja Moira, Haradhan Moira and Gopal Moira. Another theory suggests that the dish evolved from Portuguese settlers who made sweet curd cheese and dishes that resembled the Sandesh. There is also a claim that since Nobin Chandra Das hailed from Barisal in Bangladesh the sweet dish traces its roots in India’s neighbouring nation.

Bengal or Odisha, the complex origin story dissolves just as the dessert entraps one’s palate with its magical flavour.

The Curious Case Of Mysore Pak
Down south, Mysore Pak is among the most visible sweet at confectioneries acros Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, Tamil Nadu and Kerala. A prime attraction at weddings, birthday parties and various occasions, the Mysore Pak is made using ghee, gram flour, cardamom and sugar. The texture of the delicacy resembles a cookie made using copious amounts of butter.

Mysore Pak hogged the limelight in 2019 after a contentious tweet claimed that the dish was made in Tamil Nadu and was later appropriated by the king of Mysore. The tweet prompted many to look up the origin of this mouth-watering dish.

Kakasura Madappa from Karnataka is credited for inventing the Mysore Pak. According to the Madappa family, the sweet dish traces its origins to the palatial kitchen of Mysore King Krishnaraja Wadiyar (1902-1940). The king was a connoisseur of food and was known to have tried his hand at cooking occasionally. Madappa, the cook at the palace, had once forgotten to prepare a dessert course and Mysore Pak was an invention that happened on the spur of the moment. When the king demanded his dessert, the ingenious Madappa quickly mixed ghee, gram flour and sugar to make a fudge-like mixture. The family recalls that the name was instantly made up by the cook when the ecstatic king enquired about the name of the dish.

The Tangy Delight!
Just like Rasagulla and Mysore Pak, Golgappas have a vibrant history. The origin story of Golgappas has historical and mythological versions. According to one of the popular accounts, Golgappas can be traced back to the ‘Mahabharata’. It is believed that the dish was invented when Kunti asked daughter-in-law Draupadi to prepare something for the Pandavas who were in exile. Droupadi was tasked to cook something with limited resources and something that could satisfy the hunger of all five.

According to noted food historian Pushpesh Pant, Golgappa originated around Uttar Pradesh and Bihar some 125 years ago. Interestingly, the two key ingredients - potato and chilli came to India around 400 years ago. It is known by different names in different places. In Maharashtra it is known as Pani Puri, Pani Ke Batashe in Uttar Pradesh, Pakodi in Gujarat, Puchka in West Bengal, Andhra Pradesh, and Bihar.

Golgappas are known for offering ample scope to experiment. From being served with Scotch in metro cities to being offered with cheese, Golgappa has evolved in numerous forms over the years.

For a nation that’s celebrating its 76th Independence Day, there is an array of flavours to be explored by avid foodies. So go on, and try something unique to celebrate the fervour of the occasion.