Piyush Goyal celebrates UP's heritage. How Banarasi silk is not just a bridal saree, but is turning into jackets, bodysuits

Banarasi silk is often associated with bridal sarees and are draped on wedding day or are precious heriloom sarees passed down through generations. But if you thought that that is the only way to style it, then you are wrong. The centuries-old textile is now finding fresh expression in contemporary fashion as people are showing interest of wearing this weave, outside of wedding halls. Designers are transforming the rich weave into gowns, jackets, and even bodysuits. Recently, Union Minister, Piyush Goyal celebrated Uttar Pradesh's traditional craftsmanship by highlighting Lucknowi Chikankari worl, Zardozi and the beauty of Banarasi silk along with it.

So, if you love the weave and want to wear it and style it and not keep it reserved for the wedding day, then check out how designers are experimenting with its silhouettes and styling.

Gowns, jackets and modern drapes

Banarasi sarees are exceptionally gorgeous not just for its fine silk, but also the intricate embroidery work and gold or silver thread work. It also showcases motifs, floral patterns and metallic finish.

Amit Aggarwal, founder and creative director of his eponymous couture label, Amit Aggarwal and AM: IT, has explored how Banarasi weaving can translate into contemporary silhouettes. A graduate of the NIFT-Delhi, the designer has experimented with the textile to create gowns and modern drapes.

In an interview with Vogue, Aggarwal said that Banarasi gowns and contemporary drapes, have been received with appreciation from patrons over the years. His interpretation also includes bibs, jackets, skirts and modular separates. These designs demonstrate how the traditional textile can be incorporated into statement pieces rather than being limited to sarees and lehengas.

Jayanti Reddy explores capes, corsets and jackets with Banarasi textiles

Hyderabad-based designer Jayanti Reddy has also explored ways to give traditional Indian textiles a contemporary identity. In her couture collection at the 17th edition of India Couture Week, it was set to showcase 40 looks including capes, jackets and corsets paired with sarees and kurtas.
Her collection saw a harmony of Zardozi embroidery with contemporary interpretations of the Banarasi textile, that offered alternative silhouttes.

Banarasi bodysuits, brocade pantsuits and pashmina shawls

Designer Kshitij Jalori has explored the possibilities of Banarasi weaving through pieces that move well beyond conventional Indian occasion wear. As Vogue reported, his work includes pashmina-brocade shawls, Banarasi bodysuits and brocade pantsuits.

For the shawls, Jalori sources pure pashmina yarn from Ladakh, which is technically re-engineered for his requirements and adapted to the brocade-weaving process. He revealed that the brand had produced around 90 pieces on order, adding that he was not aware of anyone else having attempted the technique when the shawls were launched.

Jalori has also experimented with Banarasi bodysuits, imagining the traditional textile in a contemporary, poolside setting. He explained that the concept was developed to showcase the fabric's versatility through an unconventional design, and it unexpectedly ended up becoming bestseller as buyers wanted to make a statement even when on vacation.

Meanwhile, his brocade pantsuits found customers in Mumbai and international markets like the USA, Sweden and New Zealand.