Nati koli & boti masala redux: Bengaluru's iconic military food makes it to posh dining tables

BENGALURU: Donne biryani from the iconic Shivaji Military Hotel in Banashankari was the first treat that chef Aniket Das indulged in after moving to Bengaluru from Mumbai a year ago. The distinct flavour of the herb-hued mutton biryani made with short-grain rice in coriander, green chilli and mint, convinced him to explore the bustling joint’s kitchen.

A culinary trail to the city’s other military hotels followed. Das tried nati masala, mutton pulav and boti masala. That year-long journey has resulted in a military food festival at Aloft Bengaluru Cessna Park hotel.

“Military cuisine is quintessential Bengaluru for me,” said Das, who is serving delicacies like nati koli and mutton kurma, cooked in charcoal fire without artificial colours, in traditional donne or palm leaf cups for the festival.


Narrating the cuisine’s historic foray into Bengaluru in 1630 by Maratha ruler Shahaji Raje Bhosale (Shivaji’s father), who opened tiny outlets to serve wholesome meat-based food for his soldiers, Das said, “Bengaluru is the only city in India, followed by small pockets in Chennai and Maharashtra, to serve military food. I would rather give my guests a local heritage experience than feeding them pizza, paella and mezze.”


Like Das, others chefs of premium restaurants in Bengaluru are shining the spotlight on military food too, imparting it a standalone cuisine status. Chef Kavan Kuttappa of The Permit Room has donne biryani and pepper chicken, paya soup (goat-trotter broth) with khara-bun as breakfast special.

“As a child, I would order dry chicken in areca cups while waiting for donne biryani at military hotels. The experience of eating these specials, sometimes sold out as early as 8 am, is unique. Since it is intrinsic to Bengaluru’s heritage, I proudly added it to my restobar menu,” said Kuttappa.

Chef Sabyasachi Gorai too has added his childhood favourites like Gowda mutton chops, kaima or keema ball and keema peas curry to the menu at Bob’s Bar in Indiranagar. “Since the infrastructure of military joints may not be approachable for many new Bengalureans, I made it accessible by incorporating the heritage cuisine in our menu,” said Gorai.


Inspired by the mutton chops at the 130-year-old Dharmaraja military hotel in Shivajinagar, Balakrishnan Subramaniam added Bannur chops in his posh menu at The Old Fashioned Bar. Like the original, it is also charcoal-cooked and tava-grilled. “Military-hotel food is Bengaluru’s traditional cuisine and chefs like us are paying a tribute,” said Subramaniam.

Aslam Gafoor, general manager-luxury dining at Dineout, said: “While nothing can recreate the magic of dining at a jam-packed military hotel, it is important for chefs to rediscover regional cuisines and give it shape for new-age Bengalureans.”