Food Fables – The other time Cabo Verde influenced the world

Cabo Verde, before it was eliminated by Argentina, was the surprise package of the World Cup. Football-mad Goa usually backs Brazil so it wasn’t prepared for another team with Portuguese heritage and a now forgotten historical link.

In April 1961, the Times of India reported on a meeting in Casablanca, Morocco of anti-colonial activists from Portugal’s empire. Representatives from Angola, Mozambique, São Tomé e Principe, Portuguese Guinea, Cabo Verde and Goa “t to co-ordinate their fight for independence.” With Goan activists Aquino de Bragança and George Vaz in attendance, the conference “warmly supported the aspirations of the Goan population to unite its destiny with India...”

The Atlantic archipelagos of the Azores, Cabo Verde, Madeira and São Tomé e Principe played a key role in Portugal’s expansion around the world. As a small country on Europe’s Western edge, with few resources and constant danger of being swallowed up by Spain, Portugal’s prospects weren’t great. Sailing westwards was seen as insanity, while Africa’s coast was defended by strong native rulers. The only known Atlantic islands were the Canaries, claimed by Spain.


The discovery, from the 15th century onwards, of the other archipelagos transformed Portugal. The islands were uninhabited so Portugal could develop them unopposed to be stepping stones in its maritime quests. Their ships could shelter there and refuel with water and fresh food. Grapes were planted, with Madeira becoming famous for strong, sweet and exceptionally long-lasting wine. This made it a favourite with the British in India, and also with Americans. The signing of the Declaration of Independence, 250 years ago, was toasted with madeira wine.

Portugal stocked the islands with goats and pigs. Cabo Verde became known for breeding horses, once the Portuguese realised that these could be valuable commodities for trade. Sal island in that archipelago was named for salt deposits, which were used to preserve meat to provision shops. Tragically, the islands’ proximity to the African mainland made them hubs of the slave trade. Another tragic historical pursuit associated with Cabo Verde is whaling, with many workers on whaling ships originating from the islands.

The diversity of Cabo Verde’s population is the legacy of all these centuries. Their food combines American staples, like corn and cassava, with West African beans and plantains. Cuscuz takes its name from north African couscous, but is made with cornmeal like a dense bread. Chamuças might link with Goa, since they are samosas stuffed with ground meat or fish. Rum, the spirit which fuelled the slave trade, has left its mark with grogue, the islands’ strong spirit distilled from fermented sugarcane juice, like Brazilian cachaça.

Cabo Verde had one moment, before this World Cup, where it had global influence. In 1479 Spain and Portugal settled a period of conflict with a treaty recognising Spain’s control of the Canaries, while leaving other Atlantic territories to Portugal. But Christopher Columbus’ Spanish funded voyage to the Americas in 1493 put all this in question. The Portuguese realised this could challenge their plans for expansion not least because the Pope, who was of Spanish birth, quickly recognised Spain’s domination of this ‘New World’.

Portugal’s fear was that this might include India, whose riches they were inching towards by opening up the route around the Cape of Good Hope. They pushed the Spanish to negotiate and the result was the Treaty of Tordesillas (1494) where the countries divided the world along a meridian halfway between Cabo Verde and Columbus’ new discoveries in the Caribbean. Despite the incredulity of other European powers, the Treaty set the trajectory for imperial expansion.

The fact that the meridian crossed the eastern bulge of South America gave Portugal the chance to colonise Brazil, while also seizing parts of Africa and Asia. Spain felt justified in sailing across the Pacific to meet the other side of the meridian, gaining the Philippines. Centuries of movement, conquest and food exchange all started by measuring a meridian from Cabo Verde.