Wigmakers have bad hair days as Tirumala tresses get dyed

New Delhi: At the hilltop Tirumala temple in Andhra Pradesh, the changing colour of hair offered by devotees may be saying more about fashion than faith. The share of high-priced natural black hair - the most coveted category among wigmakers - in the hair donated has nearly halved over the past three years, even as dyed and grey hair have gained ground, an ET analysis of a dozen auction reports shows.

Wigmakers and researchers attribute the shift more to the growing trend of hair colouring among younger women than to declining religious fervour among millennials and Gen Z.

This one temple in Tirupati alone accounts for half of India's supply of Remy hair - the premium grade that makes the best wigs and hair extensions.

The share of natural black hair in the temple's auctions had fallen to 9% in September last year from 29% in July 2023, before recovering to 16% in the latest round in September this year, held by the Tirumala Tirupati Devasthanams (TTD).

The last auction saw 4,800 kg of natural black hair being bought under three length categories -27 inches and more, 19-26 inches and 10-18 inches - compared with 25,100 kg of grey and dyed hair across the same categories.

The share of grey and coloured hair, meanwhile, has generally risen, albeit with some fluctuations, according to the analysis of TTD auction reports procured from participating hair exporters.

Some wigmakers attributed the fall in black hair collection to evolving trends in hair styling.

"If you go by the numbers alone, it would suggest that fewer young women are offering their hair at the temple. But that is unlikely to be the case," said a prominent Chennai-based wigmaker, requesting not to be named. "Our analysis shows that an increasing number of younger women, including those in villages and smaller towns, are colouring their hair. But once hair is chemically coloured, its quality for making the finest wig deteriorates." Two other hair exporters backed this view.

An email query sent to TTD remained unanswered.

The premium commanded by natural black hair is reflected in the reserve prices set by the temple trust. In the latest auction, for example, hair measuring 27 inches and above was priced at ₹77,000 per kg, while the reserve price for lengths between 19 and 26 inches was ₹63,500 per kg. The corresponding prices for grey and coloured hair were ₹55,000 and ₹41,600, respectively. The rates underscore the premium exporters place on natural black hair.

Benjamin Cherian, president of the Human Hair and Hair Products Manufacturers' and Exporters' Association of India, said religious faith, particularly among India's middle-income groups, has remained entrenched. "If anything, faith is growing stronger. More devotees are visiting Tirumala for darshan. I don't see people giving up tonsuring anytime soon, nor do I foresee an existential crisis for the wig industry," he said.

Cherian, however, pointed out that the volume and category of hair put up for auction are entirely at the temple trust's discretion. "The trust has large godowns where it can store substantial quantities of hair. It releases stocks for auction depending on market demand and prevailing prices," he said.

The number of devotees tonsuring their heads has remained substantial. According to the trust's official data, 22,462 of the 65,467 devotees who visited the temple on November 6 shaved their heads. On some days, the number of devotees tonsuring their heads crosses even 50,000. But for wigmakers, the volume alone is of little consequence: short hair, particularly men's hair, commands very little value in the market.

P Bhaskar Reddy, a professor at Sri Venkateswara University, Tirupati, who specialises in cultural history and temple studies, said the decline in natural black hair does not necessarily signal a weakening of faith. The quantities offered, and at times the share of black hair, have naturally fluctuated since the post-Covid peak in 2023, he said.